18: October 1st,1917 Nagasaki: O Suwa Matsuri

"Fuji-se" Hama-no-machi

There are to be great doings here on the 7th instant , the occasion being the celebration of the O Suwa matsuri which shares with Bon matsuri (All Souls), in being the greatest among the local religious festivals. O Suwa, it is understood, is the local tutelary saint, who exercises a benificient sway over Nagasaki and its environs, hence the occasion is one for much feasting, odori (dances), processions and a general holiday making which extends over three days.

Matsuri Street Procession

Preparations are already well advanced for the coming celebration and in the course of a stroll through the streets last night many carpenters, electricians and other tradesmen were observed at work on the decorations. Poles, topped by decorated paper lanterns, electrically lighted, the whole surmounted by an open Japanese umbrella, with flags and coloured streamers, were set at short intervals on both sides of the streets and shops and frontages decorated with foliage and ablaze with multi-coloured electric lights presented a very pretty and pleasing effect.

Processions of nondescripts, with music of the fife and drum variety, frequently paraded up and down the crowded streets while in the shop windows, amid a blaze of coloured electric lights, were displayed a profusion of silks, brocades, old and new, and the gorgeous raiment which would figure in the odori and processions on the day of the matsuri, each ward vying with another in the elaborate, costly or artistic character of its display.

Some of the fabrics exhibited were of an exquisite pattern and texture and were undoubtedly of greet value as, apart from the cost of the fabric, the heavy gold bullion employed in the embroidery represented no small figure; even in these days when silver is a king among metals.

A general holiday feeling permeated the thronged streets, notwithstanding which in the shops it was a case of “Business as usual,” with no apparent reduction in prices - even where the announcement “We close on Sunday” was displayed. A noticeable feature in connection with shop signs is the duplication of the announcement in Russian lettering. “Russian spoken here” is frequently met with, as is also, though in a lesser degree, “English spoken here.” Despite the frequency of the intimation, the visitor entering such a store frequently discovers that although undoubtedly English is spoken, it is done solely by the visitor. It is suggested that a useful addition to this popular announcement would be the words: “on both sides of the counter.”

The evening, apparently, was not destined to be entirely devoid of adventure, as ere he had finished his second pipe, the Pilgrim was accosted by a youth of some eighteen summers, an overgrown schoolboy presumably, who with much effusion hailed the wanderer thusly: - (the accent, unfortunately, is unreproducible) “Hualo! Fweare arre you going?”

Now there was a distinct flavour of Auld Caledonia about that “arre,” albeit the querist did not exactly appear “stern and wild.” Still, like a cup of cold water in a thirsty land, it appealed to the writer who, having completed a long-distance course (by gramophone) of Harry Lauder, drew upon his stock of r's and in the braidest of Scots, replied in kind, “Ah dinna ken wherre ahm gangin' tae, bit, ahm on ma wa' hame.”

As the query, apparently, had exhausted the young gentleman's entire English vocabulary, pourparlers were suspended at this point and with a final farewell, querist and questioned passed by as ships in the night.

Carried along in the surge of sightseers, with many a “gomen nasai” given or received, or stumbling or being stumbled against, ere long the Pilgrim lost all sense of locality but keeping the full moon behind him he kept moving on with the crowd. Along long and winding streets, over bridges, up steps and past many exhibitions of gorgeous costumes, until on turning a corner, in the big, bronze tori of Suwa jinsha, a familiar landmark was recognised.

The Big Bronze Torii

SUWA BY MOONLIGHT

The fall moon, shining on the many torii and flights of stone steps recalled Scott's lines on Melrose Abbey:

“If you would see fair Melrose aright

Go, visit it in the pale moon light,”

and, deeming the occasion favourable for a solitary, sentimental visit to the shrine, and a view of the town and harbour in the light of a full moon and a clear sky, the project was put into immediate effect.

Slowly and sedately, up the long and many flights of stone steps, halting for a rest at the head of the first long flight, where the carpenters were busy erecting the temporary grand stand, from which a view of the odori may be obtained on the day of the festival.

Steps to the Shrine

Such work, carried on under the glare of electric lights, seemed a desecration, but as each seat would bring in 2 ½ Yen for a six hours' occupancy, any religious or sentimental scruples are ruthlessly sacrificed upon the altar of the Almighty Dollar, even on the very threshold of the shrine of Nagasaki's tutelary saint. But this is a minor point in this land of bewildering paradox.

On, up still more steps, until at last, far above the noise of saw and hammer, the shrine is reached. Here an impressive calm prevails, the heavy, groined roofs, torii and the spreading branches of the cryptomeries, casting shadows of varying density; while elsewhere all around is laved in the effulgent moonlight.

The Shrine Osuwa Junsha

On the tatami before the screen in front of the holy of holies, knelt several quiet figures, intent upon their devotions and the simplicity of the shrine itself, after the elaborate approach thereunto was impressive.

Then to a familiar spot; the small clearing, from whence an exquisite view of the town and harbour is obtained. In the light of the full moon, the view was worthy of the toiling up the long steps, although in the immediate vicinity, the harsh glare of the electric lights spoiled the general effect of the moonbeams through the leaves and branches overhead.

How different to the scene one such night some twenty years agone, when chaste Diana's sole competitor was the soft, diffused glow from a few andons (paper shaded lamps) or the paper shoji of the nearby chava! There was no mistake about it; the two lights clashed. Electricity (unshaded) and moonlight will not blend and echoing Kipling, one exclaims:-

“Sainted Diana! Can that be, the moon of other days?”

In a quiet corner, deep in the shadows, one views the town below and the houses on the slopes of the hills, with their myriad of lights. In the distance, is seen the harbour with the lamps of anchored vessels, from which, borne on the light breeze, come the chimes as eight bells are struck. The, deep, vibrant boom of some temple gong flouts across the intervening valley proclaiming the fact that Bonze San is telling his beads; a light breeze rustles the branches overhead and the ‘chirping’ of crickets is all that disturbs a silence which inspires a mood of introspective contemplation.

Kiyomizu Temple

View from O-Suwa, Kiyomizu Temple

Yon everlasting hills and these aged and noble trees seem to mock the littleness of Man and “rub in” the fact that he is but a mote dancing in the sunbeams. And what of the Faith which reared this sacred fane, who so cocksure in his own little Bethel, that he may stigmatise it as “heathen!” And yet there are many such, overlooking the fact, for fact it is, that all Faiths are allied and spring from the same sources - the fear of the unknown. Perchance the old “Tentmaker” is right, after all, who can say?

Tsuki-ni Chaya (with author's chair)

Musings at this point were interrupted by the appearance of little Chitose San with an invitation to partake of refreshments at the nearby chava. Reinforced by a most expensive thirst, the blandishments prevailed and the Pilgrim was soon seated at a table in front of a long, cool drink.

Bussiness being slack, seats at the table were taken by the two pretty nesans for a chat and tuition in English, the party being joined by an intelligent young gentleman, who proffers the information that he was an electrical engineer, whose command of English was fair, although in the matter of figures he was somewhat mixed.

The "Three Million Ton Battleship"

For example, Japan is liable to startle the world some time about the middle of next year as, (if the Censor will pass this startling bit of naval information!) a three million-ton battleship will be launched from one of her shipyards!

Desirous of “doing his bit” towards the popularisation of the coming Universal Language, the Pilgrim chatted on, improving the (literaly) shining hour, all unconscious of the flight of time. But glance at the watch shows that it is ten o'clock and as it is nearly an hour's wait to the base, “school” is dismissed and after farewells and promises to come again, with a parting view of the scene “and so home, to bed,” as friend Pepys hath it.