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| Sanyo Hotel |
In accordance with what appears to be the usual custom, the Pilgrim was aroused from his slumbers considerably wide of the time specified on the night previous. A noticeable feature about these calls at Japanese inns is, notwithstanding the elaborate preparations made by the staff, the way they seem to fizzle out and the okyaku-san, if called at all, is invariably roused out either too early or too late.
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| Sanyo Hotel in 1900 |
In the latter case, the Pilgrim has been informed that he looked so tired and was sleeping so soundly, that it seemed a pity to wake him; the result playing havoc with carefully prearranged plans and railway connections. Short of having an alarm clock placed in each room and leaving it a struggle between the clock and the sleeper, it seems to be impossible to depend upon being called ‘on time’, anytime before six a.m.
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| Inari Town at Shimonoseki |
As the time of the departure of the express was most convenient, the Pilgrim, against his usual custom, decided to travel by same and an early start was made for the station, in order to purchase the necessary express ticket, the Nagasaki to Kyoto ticket issued by the J. T. B., only providing transportation by the ordinary trains.
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| Tokyo-Shimonoseki Express 1917 |
The kyuko-kippu having been obtained (one yen for any distance), surrendering his baggage to akabo (porter, so called on account of his distinctive red cap), the Pilgrim boarded the “Shimonoseki Maru,” for the trip across the straits to Shimonoseki, where the terminus of the main line to Tokyo and beyond is situated.
The “S. M.” is some boat; built of steel and provided with every convenience for the comfort of passengers. Although the trip across to Shimonoseki occupies but fifteen minutes, the first and second class passenger accommodation is furnished upon an elaborate scale, the upholstery and curtains being of green velvet plush and there are lavatory and other conveniences unexcelled, if equalled, on any of the Yangtse river steamers.
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| "Shimonoseki Maru" - The Sanyo Railway boat |
The third class passengers remain in that part of the boat which is allotted to them and require no suasion, either physical or moral, to induce them not to wander about the forward part of the boat, which is reserved for the first and second class passengers. The scene seems unfamiliar, somehow, as here there is no hungry looking mob of slovenly “soldiers” prowling about the deck attempting to take charge generally, as is not entirely unknown elsewhere.
There is some time to elapse ere the departure of the steamer and the Pilgrim utilises the same in noting the orderly and methodical manner in which the passengers embark and in which their luggage is put on board. Comparisons are drawn between the arrangements which obtain at this and elsewhere, the result losing anything being favourable to the latter.
A decided novelty is noted in the form of a wind vane, which is installed upon the roof of the shed covering the jetty. The vane is lettered “W., E, S, and S. in Moji, apparently, or at least, on this particular jetty, the odds are always 2 to 1, in favour of a southerly breeze.
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| Shimonoseki wharf |
The time for departure draws nigh and there is quite a crowd of people on the jetty, bidding farewell to departing friends. The telegraph clangs and the boat backs out, amid much bobbing and bowing, with “sayonaras” rendered in every key and inflexion.
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| A Moji Coal Junk |
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| A Moji Sampan |
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| Hayatomo Straits |
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| Port of Shimonoseki |
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| The Coast near Shimonoseki |
This sitting a’ la Japonaise, on a two-foot-square zabuton “wants a bit o’ doin.” The Japanese appear to be able to maintain this position for hours without the least effort, the Pilgrim’s limit, however is 30 minutes by the clock, the last five of which seem an age, after which, his desire to maintain etiquette is overcome by physical revolt.
ADVENTURE WITH THE SECRET SERVICE
An amusing contretemps occurred at Shimonoseki, where the Pilgrim had an experience (not the first instance by any means) which illustrates now the Argus eye of the secret service “keeps tab” on the wandering alien.
As the train did not depart for some time after the arrival of the connecting steamer, the Pilgrim busied himself in hunting out the local office of the J.T.B., in order to obtain one of the newly issued Railway Time Tables, as the whole of the train service had recently been revised thus rendering the book in his possession obsolete.
While prospecting around, he was accosted by a pleasant looking stranger, dressed in an ordinary suit of foreign style clothes and wearing a soft felt hat of a decidedly clerical type. This gentleman, observing the Pilgrim’s indecision, apparently, seemed to be desirous of helping him on his way and, bowing politely, he enquired whither the Pilgrim was going.
Upon the latter stating that he was looking for the J. T. B., the pleasant stranger informed him that it was located in the San Yo Hotel, adjoining the station; replying in the affirmative to the query whether there was time to go there and get back in time to catch the train, and adding that he would be glad to show him the way.
Something like the following colloquy ensued, all in English :‑
Pilgrim: - “Oh! You are from the hotel? Well, I am not going to stay there, as I am on my way to Miyajima and across to Itsukushima.
Pleasant Stranger: - A-ah!, That is very nice, but I am not from the hotel, I am the Police officer. What is your name and your nationality?” Tableau! With a profusion of apologies, the Pilgrim tendered his card and passport; felt so completely flattened out in fact, that had the officer wanted farther confirmation of his identity would cheerfully have hauled out his shirt, which, in addition to this Pilgrim’s name in bold script, bears the corroborative testimony of various Chinese washermen. This sacrifice, however was not required of him as, with a polite salute, the Police Officer departed, presumably to investigate another alien whom he had marked down, while a subdued Pilgrim wended his way to the office of the “J. T. B.” where a copy of the revised issue of the Railway Timetables was presented to him, gratis.
As the train did not depart for some time after the arrival of the connecting steamer, the Pilgrim busied himself in hunting out the local office of the J.T.B., in order to obtain one of the newly issued Railway Time Tables, as the whole of the train service had recently been revised thus rendering the book in his possession obsolete.
While prospecting around, he was accosted by a pleasant looking stranger, dressed in an ordinary suit of foreign style clothes and wearing a soft felt hat of a decidedly clerical type. This gentleman, observing the Pilgrim’s indecision, apparently, seemed to be desirous of helping him on his way and, bowing politely, he enquired whither the Pilgrim was going.
Upon the latter stating that he was looking for the J. T. B., the pleasant stranger informed him that it was located in the San Yo Hotel, adjoining the station; replying in the affirmative to the query whether there was time to go there and get back in time to catch the train, and adding that he would be glad to show him the way.
Something like the following colloquy ensued, all in English :‑
Pilgrim: - “Oh! You are from the hotel? Well, I am not going to stay there, as I am on my way to Miyajima and across to Itsukushima.
Pleasant Stranger: - A-ah!, That is very nice, but I am not from the hotel, I am the Police officer. What is your name and your nationality?” Tableau! With a profusion of apologies, the Pilgrim tendered his card and passport; felt so completely flattened out in fact, that had the officer wanted farther confirmation of his identity would cheerfully have hauled out his shirt, which, in addition to this Pilgrim’s name in bold script, bears the corroborative testimony of various Chinese washermen. This sacrifice, however was not required of him as, with a polite salute, the Police Officer departed, presumably to investigate another alien whom he had marked down, while a subdued Pilgrim wended his way to the office of the “J. T. B.” where a copy of the revised issue of the Railway Timetables was presented to him, gratis.
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| The Washerman's Guarranty (sic) |
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| It's Translation |
No foreign traveller in Japan should be without a copy of this useful book. Printed in English throughout, it gives full details respecting the whole of the train and electric car services which he is likely to use, also there is a handy map of Japan, with insets, showing the Korean and Manchurian services controlled by the Japanese Administration. The book is distributed, gratis, to foreigners on application, while the tables printed in Japanese are on sales at all railway bookstalls.
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| Shiraito Waterfall and Takinomiya (Waterfall Shrine) |
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| The Train is Just Starting at Shimonoseki Station |
The train, as is usually the case with expresses, was crowded and the services of the train boy had to be requisitioned to procure a seat. Certainly, the Railway people had provided seating accommodation far all, but the number of portmanteaux, kori, shingenbukuro, and bundles of every description, piled up on the seats, would seem to necessitate the coupling on of an additional car to accommodate the Pilgrim and one or two other late arrivals. However, by dint of persuasion accommodation was procured in one of the sleeping cars. By day, these make very cosy little compartments, each coupe being designed to seat eight persons, although, as a rule, never more than half that number, with their baggage, occupy them.
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| Observation Car, Imperial Government Railways |
Dignified seclusion may be “all very fine and large,” so to speak, but the Pilgrim is of a gregarious breed and prefers the sociability of the long, open, second-class cars to these little boxes. Time enough to get into a box when the last call comes.
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| Mekari-Jinsha |
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| Nishi-hon-Machi, the main street 1917 |
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| In Kiyotaki-Koen |
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| In Kiyotaki-Koen |
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| Miyajima |
