7: August 7th 1917 Obama: Mogi and Obama

The pilgrim blew into this well-known sea-side resort this evening, after an interesting and, towards the end, a somewhat exciting trip. A start was made from Nagasaki at noon and after a short run through the town, the rickshaws took a sharp turn to the right and a steady, uphill climb followed, until an altitude was reached from where a fine panoramic view of the town and harbour was obtained.

Nagasaki Harbour

Progress was good but as the day was warm and there remained a considerable amount of up-hill work to be done; to ease the strain on the motors, additional man-power was switched on to each ricksha by engaging a "pusher," who later on acted as a retarder on the run down hill to Mogi, after reaching the crest of the hill.

Many years had elapsed since the pilgrim last passed this way but the general topography appeared to be unchanged, although the road was certainly in a much better condition.

Bamboo Grove on the Way to Mogi

The same sharp turns and "hairpin loops" were encountered on the downhill portion of the journey, some of these ticklish places being negotiated on one wheel and ere the pilgrim's hair had time to revert to the normal again from the perpendicular, the off wheel would be skirting the edge of a ravine with a safety margin of a couple of inches.

Tagami Mogi, Nagasaki

Several parties travelling by basha, were overtaken and passed with such close shaves that the only thing to do, after letting out a yell of "abunai!" was to shut one's eyes, sit tight and hope for the best.

However, the joss held good and there were no casualties to report when, a couple of hours later, the Pilgrim & Co., Ltd. rolled into Mogi.

Pier of Mogi, Nagasaki

The local basha (omnibus) is a sort of glorified bathing machine on four wheels, drawn by a pair of sturdy horses. The wheels are of a very substantial construction, with broad and thick iron tyres. Some years ago, a cheap and popular cure in vogue with the "liver brigade" at Shanghai was an early morning trip in a ricksha along the French Bund.

This was previous to the introduction of pneumatic tyred rickshaws and the "cure" was said to be efficacious. Travelling by basha would seem to be a variation of this treatment raised to the n'th degree.

Involuntary Philantrophy

At Mogi, after procuring the necessary steamer tickets, the party set out for the "Saikanai Maru.” This triumph of naval architecture was discovered to be a small, wooden steamer of some sixty tons, which lay moored at the end of a stone jetty, access to same being obtained by the passage through a turnstyle, after payment for that privelege.

In order to prevent any possible misconceptions as to the raison d'être of this gate-house and to dissipate any notions that it might be either a refreshment bar or a rest-house, the following legend was displayed promiently across the facade:

"IF YOU PASS THIS JETTY YOU WANT TO PAY 4 SEN."

Presumably, mental telepathy and thought-reading is a strong point about this jetty outfit. Just the same although as a jetty, it was all that might be desired, the pilgrim experienced no bursting desire to shell out four sen to any one. This was gently intimated to the toll-collector but the latter, while interested, intimated that there was nothing doing and a couple of sharp blasts on the steamer's whistle indicated the impatience of her skipper to depart and so put the cloture on the debate.

Wakanagawa, Mogi

Apart from the crank, top-heavy condition of the steamer and the dangerous practice of leaving open (for ventilation) the large cargo-ports, the trip from Mogi to Obama, given fine weather, is a pleasant one.

Mogi

It is remarkable that the Authorities do not take action for the safety of the vessel and her passengers, by insisting that the cargo-ports be closed and secured ere the vessel leaves the wharf. They have had one "regrettable incident" already due to this reprehensible practice, on the Mogi Obama service, an incident which entailed the loss of the vessel with many lives.

The scenery throughout the trip is picturesque, the vessel cruising along the land and poking into numerous small inlets or stopping off small villages, for passengers and freight, which are discharged into, or brought off in small boats. Round the base of wooded hills and small islets, up little fjiords at the head of which picturesqus fishing village nestle and, altogether (cargo-port thrills included) the passenger gets full value for his money. The sea, fortunately for the voyageurs in this cranky and ill-laden tub, was smooth and of a real Bay of Naples blue.

The "Saikanai Maru''

It was fully half an hour after leaving Mogi before the discovery, was made that the four large ports remained open; that there was barely a foot of free-board above their lower edges and also, that there was no intention of closing them.

Obama and Saikanai Maru

The manner in which the boat, her stability still further affected by the deck-load carried, heeled over with the use of the helm and the sickening, momentary pause ere she began to right herself again; was certainly not at all assuring, when one thought of the number of women and children on board and observed that "boats for all" formed no part of the company's business methods.

It was realised that it only required a sharp squall, down the side of one of the hills, to strike the vessel abeam, for the "Saikanai Maru" to provide all the local colour for a first class "go-down.” Acting upon the principle of "being prepared," the pilgrim, loosened his shoes, wound up his watch and wondered whether his Insurance policy covered such risks as the "Saikanai" or classed it as suicide.

These cheerful musings were interrupted by a visit from the purser and such a purser. This youth of some fourteen summers, apparently tripled the parts of purser, fireman's cook and general utility loblollyboy. Presenting a somewhat insanitary-looking book to each passenger, he desired from same an autobiographical sketch of their respective careers, together with a lot of intimate and interesting information respecting their forbears, as provided for in columns ruled off for that purpose.

Unzen Dakii

This book was a mine of interesting information; a volume apparently, of some value, as an offer to purchase same for five yen was declined, said offer inducing the purser to hold on to one corner of the precious volume while the pilgrim was writing his little romance therein.

From these simple annals, quite a number of the more or less important and prominent persons seem to have passed this way, among whom, subsequent voyagers may discern the pilgrim. described as a "brass-finisher" in the column headed "occupation”.

To those who may be inclined to cavil at this description, it may be as well to point out that even the "blokes from Bagdhad" cannot roam around Japan for several months without 'finishing' quite a respectable amount of 'brass.'

Two hours out and weird and horrible noises were heard, issuing from the open skylight of the saloon, noises suggestive of an acute attack of "tummy ache" or of approaching dissolution. The pilgrim was on the point of getting out his bottle of chlorodyne and rendering, either first aid, or easing the passage of the departing, when the accompanying tootling on a flute proclaimed the fact that it was merely a gentleman of the country pouring out his soul in song.

At Chijiwa the first ground swell is felt and as here the steamer hauls across for Obama, over which the Peak of Unzen is seen, standing out clear in a cloudless sky, the swell is thus brought right abeam.

Chijiwa

The "Saikanai Maru" rolls heavily but as by this time, most of the deck cargo has been discharged, there is more "lift" in her motion and beyond the risk of flooding through the cargo-ports, there was little cause for alarm, so much so indeed, that in order to drown the wails, with flute obligato, which were still issuing from below, the pilgrim struck up the chorus of that old-time ditty :—" Oh Joe, the boat's a-goin' over," until requested to desist.

Disembarking at Obama was a scandal. The steamer anchored a short distance away from the sea wall from which an iron ladder led down to the water's edge. There was no handrail and the steps were wet and slippery and the disembarking passengers were packed like sardines in the one sampan provided for the purpose. But the good Joss still kept his weather eye lifting and there were no untoward incidents. Once safely landed ashore, the pilgrim shook his fist at the departing "Saikanai" with a fervent "never again!" and set out for Yanagawa Hotel, a comfortable Japanese caravansary, tariff, 65 sen per diem and find your own chow.

6: August 1,1917 Nagasaki: At the Base

The weather this last few days has been very unsettled, precluding any wanderings far afield. There have been some showers, but the heavy rain necessary for the crops and also the local water supply which latter is causing grave anxiety, has not yet materialised.

Under such unpromising conditions trips are decidedly "off" and the passing hours are beguiled, either by watching the rain-drops running down the panes, the while an attempt to translate "Wait till the clouds roll by" into Japanese, is being made, or in rambles in the always-interesting streets, where there is ever something new and interesting to be seen. Invariably when interested in some object or industrial process, along comes some polite stranger who explains just how the "wheels go round" and as they obtain no tangible benefit from their efforts, the reason for this kindly interest in the alien must be attributed to the innate polite kindliness of the Japanese People.

Oura-machi

But yesterday the pilgrim sat, enjoying a cup of tea and a chat the while he watched the deft fingers of a Japanese miss, making a Panama hat out of paper. Everything about these hats with the exception of the silk outer and leather inner band, is made of paper and capital hats they are too, an examination of the finished product revealing little or no difference, beyond the name of the maker and stamp of the storekeeper who sold it, from the one worn by the pilgrim, and which had parted him from 20 dollars Mex.

Hitherto the pilgrim has assumed that the palm for an impressive, dignified bearing, lay between a New York Policeman and a savage wearing his first pair of boots. However, a close study of the Japanese junsa-san from various angles has resulted in a considerable modification of this impression. In Japan, Mr. Junsa is some person, whose admonitions are accorded a respectful hearing. He would be a very bold man indeed, that would presume to take liberties with junsa-san.

Judge then with what unholy glee, the pilgrim viewed a struggle between such awesome dignity and a commendable discretion, in which the former was irretrievably shattered.

Suishi-bashi

A sudden squall accompanied by a heavy shower compelled the Pilgrim to seek refuge in a large foreign store. Safely ensconced therein and surrounded by innumerable pots, cans, bottles and packages bearing such familiar legends as "Colman's Mustard - won't wash clothes.” Crosse & Blackwells, for marking linen, "Keating's Powder, worth, a guinea a box," &c., &c., which seemed somehow to bridge the gap 'twixt Cipango and Albion and the old, familiar labels seemed somehow like letters from home.

Kannai-machi

Looking through the open door at the general scatter for shelter, at the corner of the bridge, across the creek, stood Junsa-san who with rain-coat and hood, stood supremely contemptuous of wind or rain. A truly inspiring sight. Reminiscenses of Casablanca and the picture of the Pompeian sentry, entitled "Faithful unto Death" flashed across the pilgrim's mental retina; what were they to this, he enquired of himself? Cas. didn't rump overboard because he couldn't swim, was afraid of sharks, or sumthin'; while the sentry, well, he kept under cover as there were bricks, hot ashes, and other unpleasant things coming down, promiscuous like and even a doorway was better than nothing. But Junsa-san; here was indeed, a case of true courage combined with a dignity that was awful. For him no retirement, nay, not even into the little wooden hut provided for such occasions.

Dejima

But alas! A sudden gust completely ruined the film, necessitating a "retake," so to speak. The hood of his cape blew inside out and junsa-san's gilt-badged kepi went careeing up the street, dodging, as if controlled by some perverse imp, the frequent but futile grabs made at it by its owner. The climax arrived when junsa-san's sword got entangled between his legs it was then, like Lucifer, he fell, wallop!

Dejima(?)

Many curious industries are to be found in this interesting town. On returning to the base Between the showers, the following cryptic signboard was noticed. As an evidence of bona fides and a little free advertisement to a, possibly canny advertiser, it may be said that this signboard is within a stone's-throw of the Belle View Hotel. The passer by is duly informed that:—

"FOREIGN AND JAPANESEIUMS CHARCOAL AND CARTE POSTALES"

are to be had on application within, but immediately requiring neither, insofar as he was aware, although he has still grave doubts as to what kind of a bird a "Japaneseiums" is, the Pilgrim passed on his way.

Yama-no-Kuchi-Machi

Doubtless, the sign was absurd, but are not some of the Occidental ones just as incorrect when it comes down to a fine point?

Kencho

For example :— "John Jones, Boot-maker" would lead one to think that John spent the whole of his life turning out one complete boot, and the intelligent stranger would conclude that "Boots Maker" was the correct term.

City Hall

These are among the many things which "no fella' can understand."

"Tooth-brush, again, for example. Why in all conscience, not teeth brush, as sorely, it is used to clean the lot. But in this line of speculation there is no end.

Maruyama - the Y.M.C.A.

Katana-ya

5: July 30,1917 Kyushu: Smoked Out

Before arriving at Isahaya, where it is necessary to change to a branch line, several tunnels have to be negotiated.

Up go all the windows, bringing the temperature of the car perilously near to melting point (human). A reluctance to close the windows until the last moment results in the car getting filled with smoke and sulphurous fumes also, on emerging into the blessed daylight, it is discovered that in the rush to close the windows, several venetians have been put up, instead of the glass.

Nagasaki, Ishahaya

Nagachi-bashi

Half asphiaxiated, piebald and with a considerable amount of clinkers and Imperial Japanese Railway coal concealed about their respective persons, the party changed to the little, local railway ; a privately-owned concern that serves the Shimabara district, with its terminus at Minato.

The locomotives in use on this line, built by Messrs. Sharp, Stewart & Co. at their "Atlas Work," in 1871, are a tribute to British engineering and, incidentally, the careful nursing of the Japanese drivers. These locomotives, the pilgrim was assured, are the first ever used in Japan—the small, model railway, landed and assembled by Commodore Perry's expedition in 1853 excepted. The builders' name-plate on the engine showed the date of construction to be 1871, so that it had evidently done yeoman service and had travelled many miles during the past 36 years. Like "Charlie's Aunt," it was "still running" and looked to be fit for many more years of useful service. So much for British engineerng. cf. the foregoing example with the Boche electrical machinery, unloaded on the Shanghai Municipal Council 1.

Joka is somewhat off the beaten track of the globe trotter vulgaris, who usually leaves the train at Ainomura, en route for Unzen or Obama.

The town, which has many interesting historical associations, was a castle town of considerable importance previous to the Restoration and overthrow of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The ruins of the castle occupy a considerable area and the site, dominating the town commands a fine view of the Shimabara Gulf.

Shimbara Minato

Over head frowns the peak of Unzen which to-day has attracted to itself the sole patch of cloud visible in the heavens. Rolling billows of white envelop the mountain crest and combine with the steam arising from the hot springs to veil the summit. A proposal was made to make a trip to Unzen on the morrow, the hyper-super-energetic host calmly suggesting a pedestrian trip, from Joka to the peak!  However, the pilgrim jibbed at the idea of going to Unzen under any cir-cumstances, as at this time of the year, the place may be aptly termed Gherusalem novo, due to the annual exodus of the chosen race from S'hai. Another horrible effect of the "ravages of opium," hitherto unpublished. As far as a complete rest and change of environment is concerned, at this time of the year, one might just as well remain in Shanghai as go to Unzen, where the staple conversation is the weary, old China Coast "gup" anent the ups and downs of "docks, rubbers, Lankats" and other matters which one wishes to forget while on a holiday.

Of Unzen, in the season, it may with truth be said: - "Here every prospect please and only - (Censored).

No intimation of the visit had been sent on in advance, hence it partook somewhat of the nature of a surprise party. This, however, did not effect the welcome accorded and the entertainment and hospitality were characteristic of that dispensed by the lonely Briton, settled down among an alien people, many thousands of miles from the land of his birth.

The cost of living seems to be comparatively cheap in this little neck o' the woods, the only difficulty, apparently, being the supply of tobacco.

Unzen Dakii

Of Japanese brands the supply is ample but—appreciation of Japanese tobacco or cigarettes is an acquired taste, requiring much application, and persistence in the presence of difficulties ; the worthy who first styled Man's great solace a "weed," must have had a large and varied experience of the products of the Japanese Tobacco Monopoly.

The Customs Regulations are strictly enforced and as imported brands of tobacco are taxed nearly 200%, those who use real tobacco are more or less happy in the conviction that they are doing their bit, with something to spare, for the Government.

This presses hardly upon the Japanese who has been employed abroad and has acquired the taste for real tobacco. One cannot help sympathising with the culprit, haled to Justice, on the heinous charge of having an odd tobacco plant or two growing in an out-of-the-way corner of his little farm, which has been swooped down upon by prowling members of the revenue service.

Towards evening, Joka showed what it could do in the way of the entertainment of visitors by swarms of particularly ferocious mosquitoes.

Shimabara

However, their glee was brief, as the pilgrim is never without an ample stock of oil of citronella. A few drops forms a barrage, through which no self-respecting mosquito will attempt to pass and they merely buzzed up alongside the host, hostess or the visitors, investigated, found the "Nothin' doin' " sign hung out and, like the Levite of old, " passed by on the other side."

Oil of citronella acts like a charm and already the pilgrim has popularised the use of this deterrent. He was surprised to find the oil and its virtues practically unknown, but frequent de-monstrations of its efficacy and the eight-hour immunity from the attacks of these winged pests that one application brings, have convinced many and it is to be hoped that the possibly, increased demand may not result in rephrensible profiteering on the part of the druggists as their existing stocks run low.

Purchasers are advised to lay in their stock for the season as early as possible also, to assure themselves that the oil is of full strength, as when stocks run low, there is always the temptation to "put a long splice in it" by aiding sweet oil, thus increasing the quantity at the expense of efficiency.

On the following day, a combination bathing and fishing trip was arranged for the afternoon but the pilgrim being averse to all unnecessary exertion, demurred, prognostigating heavy rain. As is usual on these occasions, the prophet was entirely without honour in his own immediate environment. Certainly, nothing in the way of a change in the weather was apparent and for a time it appeared as if his reputation as a weather prophet would go completely "up Salt River." The country requires rain badly aid the f farmers are getting very anxious about the rice crop, some of which already has wilted and is lying ruined in the parched fields.

Unzen

It was during the combined attempt to persuade him to change his mind and join the party that a heavy squall broke over the town, sending doors and shutters banging and loose, light objects scuttering up the streets.

Immediately the sky grew dark and a few moments after the rain poured down in torrents, automatically adjourning the proposed fishing and bathing party sine die. This synchronised with a rise in the current quotation of prophecy stocks, a dignified ignoring of repeated " How did you know it was going to rain ?" together with an impressive air of prescience, serving to command a wholesome respect which was as gratifying as it was unusual. When, at last, the oracle was induced to speak, he said that he had caused the rain, as he did not want to go washing himself on a stony beach, especially as some of the foreigners up at Unzen might have telescopes. This jape was overheard by one of the servants and the first part of it, (possibly the only part understood) was repeated and had acquired: a considerable amount of publicity, ere the visitors left Joka on their return to Nagasaki. On such frail bases are many "reputations" reared.

It was assuming a tremendous responsibility to set up as a prophet even as a weather ditto, of whom much is forgiven them. Taking it by and large, the prophet business cannot be recommended as a career to any youth starting out in life, especially in view of the example provided by the ex-Reverend wiseacre, practising at Peking whom, despite his advertised contemporaneous ascent of Parnassus with a putative President, recently nearly landed himself behind the bars, wearing a striped suit.

It has been said that "A soft answer (or an apology?) turneth away wrath." "Mebbeso?" There is, indeed, something particularly robust about an "apology" that can set aside a criminal prosecution, especially when the case is actually in Court and well on its way towards completion.

A professorial chair in Practical Apologetics, held. down "Gibbie" is not beyond the bounds of possibility —that is, providing that the ex-Rev. "Gibbie " does not get what is really coming to him.

The welcome rain was of too brief duration to do much real good and from the window of the train on the return trip, the pilgrim observed a procession of farmers and villagers on their way to some local shrine, there to induce the tutelary deity to intercede and send more rain, by a performance of odori and dancing.

Shimabara Koen

4: July 30,1917 Nagasaki: Art of Missing Trains

Latterly the medical treatment that the pilgrim is undergoing appears to consist of getting dragged out of bed at 8 a.m., or some other unholy hour in the middle of the night, to tramp up mountains. Most of the peaks in the Vicinity have thus been scaled (when a rickshaw was not available) and, altogether, the pilgrim is getting about "fed up" with this Excelsior business.

The red cross marked on the margin of this diary, under to-day's date, has no connection whatever with the prevalent little unpleasantness in Europe but is a permanent memento that on this day "You leave that to me, I'll see to that," gave a delightful, practical exposition of the gentle Art of missing trains.

Railroad Station, Nagasaki

A trip to Shimabara had been planned for the day's outing, the superior, munitioneering sex settling all the travelling arrangements, ignoring with amused contempt, any suggestions put forward by the pilgrim, who thus declines all responsibility for the morning's fiasco.

As the train left Nagasaki shortly after 7 a.m., early rising and setting out for the station was necessary.

All hands and the cook were duly roused out some time in the middle of the night and as it was suddenly determined to make the jaunt a two-day trip, some additional packing was done and the party set out to arrive at the station, just in time to obtain an excellent view of the train pulling out.

The merry "Ha-ha!" in which the pilgrim indulged he is firmly convinced, did him far more good than all the doctoring or all the physic that he had hoisted in since he arrived in Japan.

It was learned that the next train left at 11 a.m. and, as it was some considerable distance back to the base, the pilgrim had half a mind to wait at the station, and with this end in view, he stalked into the place and in his best Kitchenerian manner addressed the gentleman that owned the railway, putting to him the historic enquiry : " Got a bed here?"

The query resulted in much audible indrawing of breath and a one-sided conversation in rapid Japanese—too rapid and idiomatic for the pilgrim to understand, beyond a word or two, here and there.

Determined upon following the historical precedent, however, the polite regrets were brushed aside and the demand made, in the famous brusque manner, "Then get one!"

At this point, a number of shareholders assisted in the confab—all talking Japanese, several at once, and it slowly dawned upon the pilgrim that as far as a bed was concerned, there was nothing doing.

The owner of the railway and his shareholders—at least, he and they were presumed to be such, as he was "all lit up" with gold braid and buttons (no sword though) as were the shareholders, although in a lesser degree—seemed to be surprised at this request for a bed and were desolated at their inability to comply with same.

Off to Shimabara

The statement of a member of the party that the foregoing were not the owners of the railway, but the station master and baggage-smashers, seems too absurd for consideration.

Profiting by their former experience, the party arrived at the station with nearly three-quarters of an hour to spare for the 11 a.m. train, which was duly boarded. The day was very hot and although each carriage was fitted with a number of electric fans and all the windows were opened, the interior was reminiscent of a social, Turkish bath, the illusion being further assisted as each passenger "peeled off" to the irreducible minimum of clothing. It was hot. That there might not be any doubt of the fact, the Railway Administration had very thoughtfully installed a thermometer in the carriage and sceptics could thus convince themselves of the fact Fahrenheitically or Centigradidically, so to speak.

A Social Turkish Bath

The carriage was well filled, the train being an express, and everyone was complaining about the heat while waving a fan to and fro. Desirous of keeping his end up, so to speak, the pilgrim assumed a jaunty air—such as one observes on the faces of the people in the pictorial advertisements for a certain, American, make of underwear where the wearers of "our C. O. H. (cool in Hades) underwear" appear, so cool and comfortable, amid a perspiring mob of "bleachers" at a baseball game.

This required some effort, notwithstanding the fact that the pilgrim utilised all that he could recall of a Christian Science tract. It is possible that a super-abundance of "error" in the car militated against a really successful result of his concentration upon the tenet, "It's not hot; all uncomfortable heat, the hereafter, possibly excepted, is error; why it's nice and Cool." A foreign gentleman, en route for a week-end at Unzen, remarked that the prevailing weather was "unusually hot for Japan," to which the pilgrim replied, admitting that it was "a bit warm, but really nothing to what we get at Hankow," a remark which appeared to discourage further conversation.

A social Turkish bath

Off at last. Some air moving and a general sigh of relief. Clinkers, smuts and big blobs of soot come in through the open windows, all of which are considered perferable to asphyxia and the community rapidly assumes a piebald hue. Why does the I. J. Railway Administration use soft coal, in perference to anthracite?

Mem. for intending travellers and own use in future. Don't wear a white or a silk suit for travelling in the future, until such time as the railway service is electrified.

3: July 28,1917 Nagasaki: Trip to Michinoo

This is the first date since his arrival in Japan about which the chronicler is at all certain. By carefully comparing two calendars, the date of the morning newspaper (which is a day late, coming as it does from Kobe), a review of empty medicine bottles; all verified by a visit to the bank; the Pilgrim is convinced that to-day is indeed the 28th of July of this year of dis-grace and universal lack of brotherly love, 1917.

Embankment

The domestic powers that be, decided that the day be devoted to a trip to Michinoo, a picturesque little spot, nestling in a valley, the slopes of the surrounding mountains being clothed with verdure to their summits.

At Michinoo is a reputed 'radium spring,' the waters of which have been prescribed for the Pilgrim's benefit and in addition to a little outing for the benefit of a convalescent, this spring was the objective of the visit.
With regard to the medicinal virtues ascribed to the bath, the Pilgrim had a very open mind of the most pronounced wait and see character but opined that the presence of radium was confined solely to the name, in gilt letters, which was displayed on the facade of the bath-house.

In this land, however, doctors are tyrants and as a rule, their instructions are rigidly followed out, especially in cases where the condition of the patient is such that compliance is easier than argument. So, to Michinoo, to soak in some radium.

Drydock

After disrobing at a Japanese hotel which caters excellently for Foreign visitors, the Pilgrim was taken in hand, literally as well as figuratively, by a pretty and vivacious nesan and convoyed to the bath-house some distance away, progress through the village being rendered the more in-teresting and spectacular by vain attempts to keep his limbs covered by a wholly inadequate yukata with which the breeze was disporting.

The comments of small boys and the critical observation of their elders also were not conductive towards the maintenance of a dignified composure and the open portal of the bath-house was hailed with a sigh of relief.
Ushered into the bath-room, after availing himself of the usual proffered assistance, the pilgrim lay back in the tub and took stock of his surroundings.
The bath-room was quite an elaborate affair; white marble, ditto encaustic tiles, stone and terazza work, with everything of that exquisite cleanliness so characteristically Japanese.
Sunk in the flooring were two tile-lined baths, large and small. The former contained hot water, the small one being icy cold, a continuous stream of water was running into both, thus keeping the water renewed and the radium at full horse-power.
No radium was visible to the undraped eye but, just the same, it seemed a highly regrettable happening that so much of it should be permitted to run to waste, so to speak.
Half an hour was the time specified by the domestic authorities for the absorption of the radium emanations and emerging from the bath after the lapse of that period, it was decided to be contented with the hot bath and to rub fit, or have rubbed in, all the radium possible with the towels, and not wash it all off by a dip in the cold water.
Therein, it transpired, the pilgrim erred but it was not until well on the way to the base that he learned that the hot bath, while being "grateful and comforting," was of the ordinary bath-house vintage, the radium bath being in the cold tub. Thus were the medical and domestic mandates complied with and, possibly, another useful life was thereby preserved.
The dissipations of the day were "tapered off" by a visit to one of the local cinemas, a visit which proved to be a most interesting and entertaining experience. The katsudo shashin is a great institution in Japan, where it differs in many respects from the cinema-show as the Occidental knows it. In the first place, in Japan the audience get full value for their money, as the show begins at 6 p.m. and finishes about 11.
A novel feature of the "outfit," is the presence of a number of actors seated in "pews" at the side of the proscenium who are, in effect, a modern Greek chorus. These are the katsuben or benshi and usually consist of experienced actors and mimics whom the extreme popularity of the cinema at the expenses of the "legitimate" has drawn to the former. Each of these benshi takes one or more speaking parts in the play as depicted on the screen and, armed with "the book," on which a carefully shaded light falls, they play their parts, carefully following the movements of the lips and the gestures of the character they are interpreting on the screen, the result being "talking pictures." The is perfect and to all - the members of the audience seated in the immediate proximity, possibly excepted - the voices seem to be those of the characters on the screen, an illusion which makes the film much more interesting than it might be otherwise.
This is an innovation that might be adopted by Occidental cinema-showmen, as the resultant pictures are far in advance of the mechanical "talking pictures" which were exhibited at Shanghai a year or so ago and about which so much fuss was made.
During the run of a Foreign film, a functionary occupying what for the want of a better name, might be termed the prompter's box, explains the story as it unfolds to those in the audience who are unable to read the "annunciations" as they are screened.

Oura-machi

This leads to situations highly incongruous to the Occidental eye and ear, as, for example, in the, case of the Charlie Chaplin film that was shown. It looked and sounded weird to listen to the great comedian delivering his witticisms in pure Japanese and had Charlie and his fellow-players happened to drop in at the show, they would have marvelled muchly to see his pictorial presentment raise the famous billycock, the while he murmured "Ohayo de gozaimasu," Charlie, it seems, has many enthusiastic admirers, as his appearance on the screen is hailed with satisfaction and the laughs are long and hearty. Another pleasing feature of the local cinema is the absence of the "interval."

You pay your money here to see pictures, not to gaze for some ten minutes at an announcement of half time or, that somebody's cocoa "won't wash clothes."
By a fortuitous happening, among the pictures screened was a selection from that Japanese classic, the "Chusinguara," epic of the 47 ronins.
Most foreigners resident in the Orient know the argument of this, perhaps the greatest of Japanese dramas, but those desirous of further information are referred to Mitford's "Tales of Old Japan," where in it is set forth with a wealth of interesting detail.
In the picture presented, the costumes, arms and armour of the samurai, &c., are copied with scrupulous exactitude, the interiors being especially interesting. As the whole of the story is too long for exhibition at one performance, only a portion was screened, the remainder appearing serially, night after night. Amid tense excitement, the audience feasted upon all the battles, murders and sudden deaths that could be crammed into several thousand metres of film, the popular taste being rather morbid on the whole.
The concluding items on the programme consisted of purely Japanese scenes and productions - not of the type which amused Hankow some months ago when on the screen was depicted the somewhat remarkable spectacle of "The English Navy Marches on to the War," but tragic events in modern Japanese life.
The local taste in the Drama inclines strongly towards "action." Beller-drama, in fact and fights, judo, automatic pistols and chucking ladies wholesale over precipices, down into raging torrents, would seem to figure largely among the prevailing amenities of modern Japanese society.
Someone appears to be either shooting somebody else, shooting him, or her, self, opening up his internal economy with a butcher's knife (presumably to see the "wheels go round") or otherwise participating in an active policy of eliminating the superfluous person.
As for the ladies; on the screen they appear to consist of two distinct types, the very good and the ditto otherwise. On the slightest provocation, they either go in for heroics, or burst into floods of tears, these latter are of the "clinging vine" type, most of whom are wandering around promiscuously, in search of a lost child or two, "swopped" or stolen in its infancy.
Of one of the pictures screened, a careful tally was taken and it was found that in the first couple of hundred feet the shot, stabbed, or otherwise prepared raw material for the undertaker in the absence of any Japanese "Ahfall-Verwerting Gesellschaft," amounted to 48.
Enquiries of one of the attendant refreshment Hebes, elicited the information that there was no private cemetery attached to the theatre, nor was it necessary for the management to close the establishment twice a week to attend to the casualties, carry out the dead, or mop up the "blug" from under the stage.
On returning to the base, the pilgrim listened sleepily to a homily upon the absurdity of asking foolish questions.

Chusinguara - Takami-no-Kami Asano attacks Kosuke Kira

Chusinguara - Death of Kira

Chusinguara - After the surrender, Oishi leaves the castle

Chusinguara - Seppuku of Takami-no-Kami

2: July 21,1917 Nagasaki: Somewhere in Japan

After a fine trip across, the pilgrim duly arrived at the port of Nagasaki, where several formalities had to be observed previous to disembarking. Immediately after dinner on board the previous evening, each passenger was presented with a form, containing many queries, designed to elicit much intimate and interesting information with respect to his, or her, past, the present and their intentions in the future.

Nagasaki Customs and Oura-machi

Customs Hatoba, Nagasaki

The poor, over-worked Recording Angel, presumably, spent a busy couple of hours with his celestio-stylo pen, as filling up the line prefixed with the word "age" would materially increase his labours, judging from the number of ladies present.

There was also a less pleasant formality to be complied with, in accordance with the Sanitary Regulations of the port, of which, suffice it to be said earlier intimation might have been conveyed to the passengers.
The Doctor announced that all passengers were expected to muster in the Dining Saloon, at the unholy hour of 5 a.m., the steamer being expected to arrive at the Quarantine Station and anchored by daylight.

So, at five in the morning, behold a most variegated assemblage in the saloon. Kimonos, dressing gowns and negligees of striking hues and startling patterns; one particular garment of green, yellow and blue, with a chaste design of lobsters, crabs and other crustaceans in their natural (unboiled) colours, being particularly conspicuous. It was further noted that, in many instances, lovely woman differs considerably in figure, charms and in the abundance of what the "Koko" people term "her crowning glory," in the extremes of p.m. and a.m. Another instance of the eternal conflict between Art and Nature presumably.

After the Doctor's inspection was concluded, the Police held their little seance. In single file, the passengers advanced to a table whereat were seated two polite Japanese officials. Suavely polite, m'yes, but extremely business-like and their enquiries were conducted with a celerity and efficiency which was remarkable. One of these gentlemen was in mufti while the other, a monolinguist, was in full uniform, wore a sword and from the careful manner in which he handled same at frequent intervals, it was presumed that it was loaded and that its wearer had some doubt as to its going off unexpectedly.

Passports were demanded, inspected and the bearer's rank, social status, intentions, birthmarks and idiosyncrasies elicited; all very politely, but with a gentle insistence which led one to conclude that it is easier for a Campbell to crawl through the eye of a gramophone needle than for the undesirable to enter Japan.

Noting what was in store when his turn arrived, the pilgrim borne down by thoughts of his lurid past, began to quake. The pilgrimage seemed doomed at its very outset as, apparently, permission to enter Japan was granted solely to the creme de la creme and while worrying over the possibilities in store for him as one of the rejected, his passport was gently taken from his hand and ere he actually realised it, he was on the 'grille' and had received permission to range himself among the sheep.

Hitherto no 'goats' had been discovered but at this juncture, one was led in, doing his best to look sheepish, his conductor having caught him flagrante delicto, photographing the harbour from the saloon deck!
This ardent devotee of the sunny Art, will it be believed? was none other than a Vice-Consul (another instance of the vagaries of the Official Mind). Despite the numerous notices prominently displayed about the steamer, not to mention the many cases which he must have read of in the newspapers, Mr. Vice-Consul had been amusing himself by seriously fracturing the War Department Regulations while the inquisition was in session in the saloon.

Possibly, it was a fortunate thing for him that he occupied an official position, otherwise it might have gone hard with him. As it was, beyond the confiscation of the reel of film and some admonitory advice, he got off scot-free.

A little later on in the day, the pilgrim found himself within an ace of fracturing the local Police Regulations. Happening to require some article packed in his dressing case, a thorough search (fortunately) was necessary to discover same. The search, however, brought to light his automatic, very necessary elsewhere but of little use in Japan, which had somehow got packed up with the rest of his gear.

On landing at the Customs hatoba the pistol was promptly declared and a merry little scene ensued, the finale being the conveyance of the artillery to the customs bonded store, there to rest, well vaselined, until regained by its owner on his departure from Japan.

In due time the pilgrim found himself installed as a 'supernumerary' at the home of Mama-in-law, situated in the Hunki-dori-machi.
Hunkidori, it may be observed, is merely a figure of speech as, for obvious reasons, no precise intimation of the locality will be given, beyond the statement that this funny little house, with its garden and its smiling and willing service; perched on the side of a hill, is about the coolest spot in Nagasaki.

Higashi Yamate

The interior appears to consist, in the main, of primrose-coloured , paper screens and polished woodwork and the convenient electric light somehow, seems to be an anachronism.

From the verandah, a splendid view is obtained of the Harbour and that part of the town lying on the slopes below. The scenery seems to vary with time and season and during the evening, no student in the life class need go short of a model, either for the head or "the altogether," as 6 p.m. and bath-time synchronise hereabouts.

This results in many replicas of Messrs. Pears' advertising poster: "The Happy little Jappy in her tub." Yes; there is a Lady Godivaness about the p.m. scenery that is charming.

Tatami room

Foreword: Leaves from the Diary of a Pilgrim 1917

Leaving Shanghai on the Korea Maru, bound for Nagasaki

Written by Sydney S. Kemp, Reporter for the Shanghai Times, c. 1917

Picture of Shanghai 1917

Foreword

In compliance with the Editorial request, for a sketchy description of the happenings and vicissitudes, incident to the writer's revisiting divers and sundry scenes in Japan; localities in many instances far of the beaten track of the Globe-trotter, these 'leaves' are the result.

No literary merit is claimed for these leaves, nor need any new or valuable information, starling discoveries, or erudite description of things Japanese, be sought for in this erratic itinerary, in which past, present and future tenses will be found laying cheek-by-jowl. The moods, also, are many in this sketchy record of the writer's impressions, jotted down as they were in his note-book while freshly imprinted upon his mind or memory.

Be it understood, furthermore, that naught herein has been set down in malice. It is now many years since the writer made the discovery which comes to all, sooner or later - that most objectionable things, or persons, are not worth the waste of tissue that a healthy, active hate and the desire to strafe involves.

The first axion in the writer's private lexicon of Philosophy, incorporated herein without extra charge runneth thusly: "Life is a huge leg, come, let us pull it." Hence, will the daimyo of Naniwa-machi and other captious critics please note, and not 'bazz' too many "windows."

It has been intimated that "the windows of these 'leaves' are many - and the errors thus rendered visible are conducive to unholy merriment among the illuminated. This is, indeed, good hearing. In these depressing and anxious times a good, hearty laugh is a valuable asset and the peripatetic pilgrim will be delighted to join in the merry "Ha-ha!" even though it be at his own expense.

At the outset, it was anticipated by the writer that the passage of over a score of years would bring about many and varied changes, Japan having adopted the policy of "push and go" and duly acquired the mania for improvements. These, while doubtless adding considerably to the amenities of existence, are apt to prove depressing amid once familiar scenes where one searches in vain for vanished landmarks.

Such a pull on his heart-strings, the writer anticipates on the occasion of revisiting Hankow, to discover the sylvan scene, once known as "Jardine's Timber Yard," improved' beyond recognition into shops and residential flats, as prophesied in the issue of the "Central-China Post" which arrived to hand this morning.

At first, it was intended to record the incidents of this pilgrimage to old shrines and dimly-remembered altars under such captions as "Through Fairy Land by Bike and Side-car," but as no member of the outfit knew anything concerning motoring, beyond laying back and giving orders as to speed or direction, the idea of motor-bike and side-car was reluctantly abandoned. The scheme of revisiting scenes first seen over a score of years past and recording a comparison between one's maturer impressions, with those formed during the earlier years of indiscretion, was no sudden impulse.

This intention had been steadily crystalling for several years and a fortuitous conjunction of incidents rendered the fulfillment of the desire possible. Once decided upon, if it were to be done it were well done quickly. Clothes were packed and the numerous incidentalae attendant upon these occasions duly attended to.

Followed the tour of the various steamer offices when "Booking a passage" was discovered not to be the simple thing it first appeared, Consular formalities having to be complied with also not tending to simplify matters. The applicant for a passage, everwhere was received with many regrets; so many, indeed, that an apt. latter-day rendition of the tag: - "There is sorrow on the sea" might appropriately read: There is much sorrow in the Passenger Department at the steamer offices, albeit unholy exuberant joy in the freight ditto, in consequence of the soaring rates.

Logo of the Japanese steamship company


In the offices of the Japanese companies, the regret was accompanied with much audible indrawing of breath on the part of the polite passenger clerks who were, at least they said so, "booked up solid for weeks ahead."





Ticket receipt


The applicant for a passage tried diplomacy. Duplicating the deep breathing exercises, he enquired in his best, No. 4 chop, Japanese, if there was not some vacant nook or corner on board where he could stow himself away, yea, even the dog-kennel? But Alas! All to no purpose, seemingly, even the dog-kennels had been pre-empted.

But it came to pass, one day the Pilgrim had converse with a certain wise man and, while paying for the refreshments, the oracle spake unto him, saying: "You try the Toyo, I hear that there are one or two vacant berths."

Verily, verily, out of bars, refreshment rooms and places where they sing, cometh much wisdom, as speedily in exchange for divers pieces of silver a passage to the Land of the Rising Sun was secured.

Nathless, there was a fly in the ointment. The "good ship Korea Maru" (vide Bills of Lading) was not due to depart for eight days.

This period was indeed, a merry interlude, for the most part occupied with false alarms as to the acceleration or postponement of the day of sailing and the delights of packing up over night, to discover next morning that some indispensable articles had been stowed away near the bottom of a trunk. Thus the monotony of the passing days was varied by many burials and resurrections of clothing, &c.

How Time lagged. It seemed as if the day of sailing would never dawn and the number of intervening leaves on the date-block grow fewer; each leaf torn off, apparently, leaving just as many remaining.

At the Tender

As the tender was advertised to leave the Bund at 5 p.m., it was deemed advisable to arrange to rise in good time in order to complete the final packing and preparations. "Big Ben," at whose broad open countenance, many a boot or sock has been thrown in the ambrosial a.m., was accordingly set to begin his intermittent morning call at 4.30 a.m. and everything having been arranged or laid out to accelerate the morning toilette, the Pilgrim turned in for his final dossi profundo in China.

At 10 a.m. on the day of departure the Pilgrim might have been seen seated on his trunks, or a portion thereof, all ready for setting out at the appointed time. 4.30 p.m., "ready, to the last gaiter button." There he sat, watching the clock, every few minutes comparing same with his watch and clinching matters by enquiring the correct time from all and sundry. His collar was a wilted wreck and the pristine freshness of his travelling suit had vanished into the Ewigkeit.

Towards the end, followed sundry alarums and excursions anent missing keys and other articles which suddenly appeared to have developed auto-locomotory powers, as they were never to be found in the place last set down.

At the time appointed for departure, the carriage not having arrived, several rickshaw were hastily chartered and on setting out for the tender, the pilgrimage at last was en esse.

At the tender, seemingly, all Shanghai and his wife, to say nothing of sundry sisters, cousins and aunts; had forgathered, either holiday bound, or to bid adieu to others more fortunate who were so bent.

How that last ten minutes waiting appeared to drag; would the Customs clock never strike? At last. Follows a blast on the tender's whistle which proclaims that something was about to be doing. Something very nearly was, it transpired a few moments later, as no sooner had the tender cast off than the usual, unspeakable cargo-boat contrived to get right across her bows and for some moments it appeared that the canny laodah was about to achieve the desire of his heart - a new boat at the expense of the T. K. K. However, by the smart handing of engines and helm, this consummation of the desire of a lifetime was averted and the tender, gathering speed, passed on her way down river.

Favoured by the strong ebb tide which was running, the tender made a rapid trip to Woosung and was soon alongside that most comfortable of steamers, the "Korea Maru." Though the day was fine, a strong blustering wind prevailed with a short choppy sea, rendering the making fast alongside and the transfer of passengers and baggage a matter of considerable difficulty and not a little excitement on the part of the former.

On sheering alongside, Old Father Yangtsze presented his compliments in the shape of a good sized sea which 'lolloped' on board on the side nearest to the steamer and, as the passengers, anxious to get on board the larger steamer, had gathered there awaiting the lowering of the gangway, several arrived on board the "Korea Maru" drenched from head to foot.

Once safely one board, however, no complaints were overheard. Beyond all doubt. the T. K. K. know how to render their patrons comfortable and the "Korea" although not the newest boat of the Line, is one of the most comfortable and steady boats in the trans-Pacific service.