25: October 25th, 1917: A Trip to Unzen

The following account of what, possibly, is the first visit made by foreigners to this now well-known and popular summer resort may prove interesting. The details were obtained from one of the pioneers in this dangerous adventure, now a prominent and respected member of the local foreign community, and a resident of Japan for more than half a century. The trip was made in the year 1867, a time when the limited number of foreign residents in Japan were rigidly restricted to prescribed areas in the vicinity of each of the few Treaty Ports which at that time were open to foreign commerce.

Hachiman Jigoku

Hachiman Jigoku

Mr. L—., at the time a youth just out of his 'teens, in company with an adventurous friend - both residing at Nagasaki and possessing, among other qualifications, a fair working knowledge of the Japanese language - went for a walk as far as Himitoge Yama, a short distance from Nagasaki. Himitoge, freely translated, means the place to see the sunrise and hither, on the first day of the year, many of the Nagasaki townfolk flock to view the first beams of the rising sun. In the sixties, however, this place marked the limit of foreign “peaceful penetration” and a guard of samurai was stationed there, to prevent the entry of natives of the hinterland unprovided with a pass, from having any intercourse with the foreigners at Nagasaki, or to turn back any too enterprising foreigner, who might feel disposed to wander further on to the sacred soil of Nippon.

Hodaya Shrine

Hodaya

Nagasaki at that time was under the sway of the Tokugawa clan and beyond Aba, the land on the other side of the Gulf was within the jurisdiction of the Daimyo of Hizen. The country, although nominally ruled by the Emperor, in effect was governed by the Tokugawa Shogun and the great daimyos, each practically an absolute ruler in his own territory, where he ruled more-or-less as it pleased him, and with but scant attention on the behests of either Mikado or Shogun, unless such behests were backed up by force majeure.

Onsen Mt., Shimabara Hijen

On their arrival at the pass at Himitoge yama the travellers, being youths of discretion, were not minded to proceed further and to risk being cut down by some two-sworded swashbuckler and were thus on the point of returning to Nagasaki, when they encountered a party of Japanese friends, who informed them that they were going to Aba, en route to Obama. The Japanese further informed the travellers that as the usual guard had been withdrawn for the past few days, there seemed to be no obstacle to prevent Mr. L. and his friend joining their party to Aba from which, if they cared to do so, they might all take the trip to Obama together.

Outlying Islands, Shimabara Gulf

Such an opportunity for adventure was not to be missed on any account and eagerly assenting to the proposal, the adventurous pair accompanied their friends to Aba then, as at present, a small fishing village, where the party embarked on board a fishing boat, at that time the sole means of communication between Aba and Obama. Fortunately for the voyagers, the weather proved fine and after a trip occupying nearly half a day, they arrived safely at Obama, where, bidding sayonara to their friends, the two travellers, now pioneers, set out cautiously to see the lions of the hamlet. They were probably the first foreigners ever seen by the inhabitants and their presence naturally excited much speculation and comment, othewise their movements were not impeded in any way during their inspection of the place.

O-Yu (hot spring)

The description of Obama as it was in those pre-Meiji days may be interesting to those who know the town as it is at the present day. In place of the fine stone bund, the numerous bath-houses, shops, the two, three and four storeyed hotels, to say nothing of the motor-cars and the other attactions of the town, Obama was but a small fishing village with a bath-house or two and at the most about forty small houses.

Sulphur Spring Yawate, Unzen

A ten minutes' inspection amply sufficed to “do the sights” and the pioneers were considering what to do next when Mr. L., espying a small temple on the hill, situated at the head of many flights of stone steps, drew the attention of his companion to same and it was decided that they would both go up and have a “look-see,” as from that altitude a fine view of the surrounding country could be obtained.

The project was put into immediate execution but was never carried out in its entirety, as when nearing the top of the steps, and while passing a long and high bamboo fence, they had just reached a gateway of the latter, when out sprang a number of fierce looking samurai, each armed with his two swords, and some in addition carrying particularly savage looking spears. They seized the adventurous pair and, after debating whether to cut them down as spies, there and then, finally thought better of it and hauled the pioneers into the presence of their Commander.

Castle Moat, Joka

This latter personage, proved to be an elderly, pleasant looking official, who while seated on the tatami of his yashiki, interrogated the samurai, enquiring where they had captured the “Horrander San,” what they were doing when they were seized, also if they had resisted arrest. The latter query was somewhat superfluous, seeing that captives were still alive and moreover unwounded. It is just these little straws that show which way the wind blows, that illustrate the Japanese devotion to details and precision.

The details of the capture being supplied, the Bugyo, (officer) turned to the prisoners, both of whom were in a mortal funk and expected instant decapitation or, at the least, their being trussed up like pigs and carried on poles, back to their Consuls at Nagasaki. However, they took heart from the kindly demeanour of the Bugyo and replied to his question readily and without reserve, asserting that their presence in district had no political or other ulterior purpose and that they had come solely to see the unknown wonders of the great Japan, of which they had heard so much but had never seen.

Unzen

Their obvious youth and the open-simplicity of their replies seemed to preposses the Bugyo in their favour. He said:—“Don't you know that it is my duty, either to cut you down, or tie-you up and send you back to Nagasaki, there to hand you over to the Foreign authorities?”  The pioneers, admitted the fact, adding hastily, that they were reluctant to put him to so much trouble and compel him to adopt such harsh measure; so if he would order their release, they would promise to go straight back, as quickly as they could and would give no further trouble to any one. “That was all very well,” the Bugyo replied, “but if your presence here becomes known to my Daimyo, together with the knowledge that I have released you.; it may cost me my head, or at the least, the necessity of my taking the happy despatch” (suicide by seppuku.)

After considering matters for a while, the Bugyo ordered the guards to conduct the prisoners to the garden at the rear of the Yashiki and leave them there. The order was duly carried out and the pair were left alone in a beautifully laid out garden, surrounded by a high bamboo stockade, wondering anxiously what was going to become of them, especially as a cleared space seemed horribly suggestive of an exection ground. Escape was clearly impossible. The high stockade, the number of samurai within call, to say nothing of not knowing what direction to take, should they to succeed in scaling the former and eluding the vigilence of the latter; hence they possessed not that degree of placid contemplation necessary for the appreciation of the many and varied beauties, natural and artificial, in the plaisance in which they were confirmed.

Unzen

While waiting thus in anxiety, the Bugyo appeared in a room facing the garden and seating himself on the tatami, he called to the prisoners and invited them also to be seated. He again plied them with questions, particularly their reason for coming to Obama and, an inspiration seizing Mr. L., he spoke up and explained with much naive detail how while in Nagasaki they had both heard so much about Ojigoku, the place of fire and boiling springs where the devil lived, that they wished to see the place. and if possible, the devil, for themselves. At the reply the Bugyo laughed heartily and upon their admission that they were hungry he clapped his hands and a servant appearing, he ordered refreshments to be placed before the prisoners.

By this time, the fears of the latter, anent the imminence of decapitation or, being trusssd up and tied to poles, had been allayed somewhat by the kindly demeanour of their host, who apparently was disposed to feel friendly towards them, so being ravenously hungry, they “wired into” the tea, cakes and fruit set before them without more ado, while replying to the many questions put to them.

Their host appeared to be very curious respecting America and England. which he seemed to think were adjacent countries. On being informed that tea was not grown in either country, and both sent to Japan to buy it, their host said that he had quite a lot of tea that he wished to sell and enquired if his visitors would consider the purchase of it. The latter replied that as they, unfortunately, were at the time outside the Treaty Limits, the transaction, however desirable on both sides, was thus impossible, but that if he, their host, would send the tea to Nagasaki, they would buy it, or at least, would persuade their friends to do so.

The Bugyo appeared to consider this reply a good joke and laughed so heartily that the prisoner-guests, although the point of the joke was not apparent, thought it politic to join in the merriment and this mutual cachinnation seemed to clear the atmosphere of the last vestiges of distrust. After again explaining that it was his duty to detain them and send them back to Nagasaki under arrest, the Bugyo on their assurance that they really wished to see Ojigoku and their promise that they would create no disturbance or interfere in any manner with any of the people whom they might meet, said that he would allow them to go and also, both for his own and their protection, he would send one of his samurai along with them, as a conductor and guard.

In due course, the pioneers, prisoners no longer, accompanied by their warrior guardian, whom as soon as the party were well clear of the Yashiki they found to be a really decent chap and disposed to be friendly and communicative, set out on the long climb to Unzen. The only route was a narrow cow-path, which twisted this way and that, up the side of the mountain and it was long after sunset when they arrived completely tired out with the excitements of the day and their exertions.

The pioneers put up for the night at a small inn with an adjoining bath house on the west side, the houses and bath being still in existence, and after a hearty meal, they turned in for the night, happy in fact that their respective heads remained secure on their shoulders, and slept soundly until daybreak. Next day, in company with their guard, the pioneers visited Ojigoku and inspected the wonders of Unzen, which are too well-known to need any description. Some things, fortunately, in Japan are unchanging, and the natural attractions of Unzen are in this category.

The day was spent in sight-seeing, after which a return was made to the inn for a meal, previous to descending the mountain to Obama, the same evening. These plans however, were upset by Mr. L being unwell, thus rendering travelling impossible. After discussing matters, the guard said that as it was imperative that he report for duty the next day, he would leave the pioneers at the inn, as they could find their way back without his assistance and thus the pair were left to their own devices.

Next morning, Mr. L. feeling much better, the pioneers were discussing ways and means when they were delighted to see their Japanese friends, from whom they had parted at Obama. The latter, while equally pleased, expressed their surprise at the fact of the pioneers having succeeded in getting so far without having been arrested. The circumstances were explained to them and as they were travelling to Joka, they suggested that the pioneers had better join them and on arrival at Minato, the port of Joka, they could obtain a boat to take them across to Aba, and away from this dangerous locality

The idea seemed a good one and adopting it, the party descended the hill on the Shimabara side. To obviate any suspicion of bad faith on their part, a message was left with the innkeeper, to be handed to the guard, should another one be sent by the Bugyo, for transmission to that functionary. In the message, which was written by one of their Japanese friends, the pioneers expressed their gratitude for his (the Bugyo's) kindness, in allowing them to see this wonderful place, although they had, unfortunately, not seen the devil and stated that they were going straight back to Nagasaki, via Minato, where they could obtain a boat.

On nearing the castle town of Joka, and not wishing to compromise their friends by being seen in their company, the pioneers parted from the latter and entered the gate of the town alone. But more adventures were in store for them since, as they were nearing Minato, they encountered a large concourse of people who were evidently out to enjoy themselves.

They were espied by a number of samurai who were seated feasting and a rush was made for them. Realising that flight was impossible, they decided to make no resistance, and awaited capture with as much composure as they could muster up. One huge samurai rushed up to Mr. L., caught him up and carried him off on his shoulder, amid the laughter and plaudits of the people. The other pioneer was grabbed by the arm, and the pair, prisoners once more; were set down on the beach amid a crowd of revelling samurai and townspeople.

Refreshments, liquid and solid, were forced upon the captives and Mr. L—'s refusal to partake of the sake offered by his captor for a moment seemed to disturb the harmony of the meeting, until his eager request for and acceptance of tea, of which there was an ample supply, soothed any possibly ruffled feelings on the part of his captor-host. Mr. L—'s companion, the other pioneer, his willing absorption of the national liquor, together with his, metaphorically, “clinking glasses all round,” was hailed as the Japanese equivalent of “a jolly good fellow” and once again the immediate apprehensions of the pair were temporarly allayed.

Fortunately at this juncture a commotion, occasioned by a fight between two samurai, arose and there was a general rush to the scene of combat, the offensive hosts joining the crowd. The opportunity for escape seemed too good to be missed and the pioneers did what is popularly known as “a bunk,” down a narrow alley and into a house, the door of which stood invitingly open. Once inside, they begged the occupier to close the door and conceal them: also arranged with him to procure a boat for them in order that they could escape when it grew dark.

The various details were satisfactorily arranged and after “lying doggo” for the rest of the day, in the “wee sma' hours,” the pioneers were smuggled into a small fishing boat, in which they made the return trip to Aba. On their return to Nagasaki where their friends were beginning to give them up for lost, they learned of the misadventures of another youthful Nagasaki-ite similarly afflicted with the wanderlust and inspired with the spirit of adventure, who, however, had not come off quite so well as our two pioneers. A day or two previously this gentleman had been carried into Nagasaki on a pole, trussed up like a pig in which guise he appeared before his Consul, a sad and sorry young man, as in addition to his physical sufferings, he had to endure an official reprimand in consequence of his deliberate breach of the Treaty Regulations.

But autre temps etc. Conditions have altered considerably since those by gone days and the trip to Unzen is now considerably less exhilarating than it apparently was in the palmy days of the sixties.

5: July 30,1917 Kyushu: Smoked Out

Before arriving at Isahaya, where it is necessary to change to a branch line, several tunnels have to be negotiated.

Up go all the windows, bringing the temperature of the car perilously near to melting point (human). A reluctance to close the windows until the last moment results in the car getting filled with smoke and sulphurous fumes also, on emerging into the blessed daylight, it is discovered that in the rush to close the windows, several venetians have been put up, instead of the glass.

Nagasaki, Ishahaya

Nagachi-bashi

Half asphiaxiated, piebald and with a considerable amount of clinkers and Imperial Japanese Railway coal concealed about their respective persons, the party changed to the little, local railway ; a privately-owned concern that serves the Shimabara district, with its terminus at Minato.

The locomotives in use on this line, built by Messrs. Sharp, Stewart & Co. at their "Atlas Work," in 1871, are a tribute to British engineering and, incidentally, the careful nursing of the Japanese drivers. These locomotives, the pilgrim was assured, are the first ever used in Japan—the small, model railway, landed and assembled by Commodore Perry's expedition in 1853 excepted. The builders' name-plate on the engine showed the date of construction to be 1871, so that it had evidently done yeoman service and had travelled many miles during the past 36 years. Like "Charlie's Aunt," it was "still running" and looked to be fit for many more years of useful service. So much for British engineerng. cf. the foregoing example with the Boche electrical machinery, unloaded on the Shanghai Municipal Council 1.

Joka is somewhat off the beaten track of the globe trotter vulgaris, who usually leaves the train at Ainomura, en route for Unzen or Obama.

The town, which has many interesting historical associations, was a castle town of considerable importance previous to the Restoration and overthrow of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The ruins of the castle occupy a considerable area and the site, dominating the town commands a fine view of the Shimabara Gulf.

Shimbara Minato

Over head frowns the peak of Unzen which to-day has attracted to itself the sole patch of cloud visible in the heavens. Rolling billows of white envelop the mountain crest and combine with the steam arising from the hot springs to veil the summit. A proposal was made to make a trip to Unzen on the morrow, the hyper-super-energetic host calmly suggesting a pedestrian trip, from Joka to the peak!  However, the pilgrim jibbed at the idea of going to Unzen under any cir-cumstances, as at this time of the year, the place may be aptly termed Gherusalem novo, due to the annual exodus of the chosen race from S'hai. Another horrible effect of the "ravages of opium," hitherto unpublished. As far as a complete rest and change of environment is concerned, at this time of the year, one might just as well remain in Shanghai as go to Unzen, where the staple conversation is the weary, old China Coast "gup" anent the ups and downs of "docks, rubbers, Lankats" and other matters which one wishes to forget while on a holiday.

Of Unzen, in the season, it may with truth be said: - "Here every prospect please and only - (Censored).

No intimation of the visit had been sent on in advance, hence it partook somewhat of the nature of a surprise party. This, however, did not effect the welcome accorded and the entertainment and hospitality were characteristic of that dispensed by the lonely Briton, settled down among an alien people, many thousands of miles from the land of his birth.

The cost of living seems to be comparatively cheap in this little neck o' the woods, the only difficulty, apparently, being the supply of tobacco.

Unzen Dakii

Of Japanese brands the supply is ample but—appreciation of Japanese tobacco or cigarettes is an acquired taste, requiring much application, and persistence in the presence of difficulties ; the worthy who first styled Man's great solace a "weed," must have had a large and varied experience of the products of the Japanese Tobacco Monopoly.

The Customs Regulations are strictly enforced and as imported brands of tobacco are taxed nearly 200%, those who use real tobacco are more or less happy in the conviction that they are doing their bit, with something to spare, for the Government.

This presses hardly upon the Japanese who has been employed abroad and has acquired the taste for real tobacco. One cannot help sympathising with the culprit, haled to Justice, on the heinous charge of having an odd tobacco plant or two growing in an out-of-the-way corner of his little farm, which has been swooped down upon by prowling members of the revenue service.

Towards evening, Joka showed what it could do in the way of the entertainment of visitors by swarms of particularly ferocious mosquitoes.

Shimabara

However, their glee was brief, as the pilgrim is never without an ample stock of oil of citronella. A few drops forms a barrage, through which no self-respecting mosquito will attempt to pass and they merely buzzed up alongside the host, hostess or the visitors, investigated, found the "Nothin' doin' " sign hung out and, like the Levite of old, " passed by on the other side."

Oil of citronella acts like a charm and already the pilgrim has popularised the use of this deterrent. He was surprised to find the oil and its virtues practically unknown, but frequent de-monstrations of its efficacy and the eight-hour immunity from the attacks of these winged pests that one application brings, have convinced many and it is to be hoped that the possibly, increased demand may not result in rephrensible profiteering on the part of the druggists as their existing stocks run low.

Purchasers are advised to lay in their stock for the season as early as possible also, to assure themselves that the oil is of full strength, as when stocks run low, there is always the temptation to "put a long splice in it" by aiding sweet oil, thus increasing the quantity at the expense of efficiency.

On the following day, a combination bathing and fishing trip was arranged for the afternoon but the pilgrim being averse to all unnecessary exertion, demurred, prognostigating heavy rain. As is usual on these occasions, the prophet was entirely without honour in his own immediate environment. Certainly, nothing in the way of a change in the weather was apparent and for a time it appeared as if his reputation as a weather prophet would go completely "up Salt River." The country requires rain badly aid the f farmers are getting very anxious about the rice crop, some of which already has wilted and is lying ruined in the parched fields.

Unzen

It was during the combined attempt to persuade him to change his mind and join the party that a heavy squall broke over the town, sending doors and shutters banging and loose, light objects scuttering up the streets.

Immediately the sky grew dark and a few moments after the rain poured down in torrents, automatically adjourning the proposed fishing and bathing party sine die. This synchronised with a rise in the current quotation of prophecy stocks, a dignified ignoring of repeated " How did you know it was going to rain ?" together with an impressive air of prescience, serving to command a wholesome respect which was as gratifying as it was unusual. When, at last, the oracle was induced to speak, he said that he had caused the rain, as he did not want to go washing himself on a stony beach, especially as some of the foreigners up at Unzen might have telescopes. This jape was overheard by one of the servants and the first part of it, (possibly the only part understood) was repeated and had acquired: a considerable amount of publicity, ere the visitors left Joka on their return to Nagasaki. On such frail bases are many "reputations" reared.

It was assuming a tremendous responsibility to set up as a prophet even as a weather ditto, of whom much is forgiven them. Taking it by and large, the prophet business cannot be recommended as a career to any youth starting out in life, especially in view of the example provided by the ex-Reverend wiseacre, practising at Peking whom, despite his advertised contemporaneous ascent of Parnassus with a putative President, recently nearly landed himself behind the bars, wearing a striped suit.

It has been said that "A soft answer (or an apology?) turneth away wrath." "Mebbeso?" There is, indeed, something particularly robust about an "apology" that can set aside a criminal prosecution, especially when the case is actually in Court and well on its way towards completion.

A professorial chair in Practical Apologetics, held. down "Gibbie" is not beyond the bounds of possibility —that is, providing that the ex-Rev. "Gibbie " does not get what is really coming to him.

The welcome rain was of too brief duration to do much real good and from the window of the train on the return trip, the pilgrim observed a procession of farmers and villagers on their way to some local shrine, there to induce the tutelary deity to intercede and send more rain, by a performance of odori and dancing.

Shimabara Koen