25: October 25th, 1917: A Trip to Unzen

The following account of what, possibly, is the first visit made by foreigners to this now well-known and popular summer resort may prove interesting. The details were obtained from one of the pioneers in this dangerous adventure, now a prominent and respected member of the local foreign community, and a resident of Japan for more than half a century. The trip was made in the year 1867, a time when the limited number of foreign residents in Japan were rigidly restricted to prescribed areas in the vicinity of each of the few Treaty Ports which at that time were open to foreign commerce.

Hachiman Jigoku

Hachiman Jigoku

Mr. L—., at the time a youth just out of his 'teens, in company with an adventurous friend - both residing at Nagasaki and possessing, among other qualifications, a fair working knowledge of the Japanese language - went for a walk as far as Himitoge Yama, a short distance from Nagasaki. Himitoge, freely translated, means the place to see the sunrise and hither, on the first day of the year, many of the Nagasaki townfolk flock to view the first beams of the rising sun. In the sixties, however, this place marked the limit of foreign “peaceful penetration” and a guard of samurai was stationed there, to prevent the entry of natives of the hinterland unprovided with a pass, from having any intercourse with the foreigners at Nagasaki, or to turn back any too enterprising foreigner, who might feel disposed to wander further on to the sacred soil of Nippon.

Hodaya Shrine

Hodaya

Nagasaki at that time was under the sway of the Tokugawa clan and beyond Aba, the land on the other side of the Gulf was within the jurisdiction of the Daimyo of Hizen. The country, although nominally ruled by the Emperor, in effect was governed by the Tokugawa Shogun and the great daimyos, each practically an absolute ruler in his own territory, where he ruled more-or-less as it pleased him, and with but scant attention on the behests of either Mikado or Shogun, unless such behests were backed up by force majeure.

Onsen Mt., Shimabara Hijen

On their arrival at the pass at Himitoge yama the travellers, being youths of discretion, were not minded to proceed further and to risk being cut down by some two-sworded swashbuckler and were thus on the point of returning to Nagasaki, when they encountered a party of Japanese friends, who informed them that they were going to Aba, en route to Obama. The Japanese further informed the travellers that as the usual guard had been withdrawn for the past few days, there seemed to be no obstacle to prevent Mr. L. and his friend joining their party to Aba from which, if they cared to do so, they might all take the trip to Obama together.

Outlying Islands, Shimabara Gulf

Such an opportunity for adventure was not to be missed on any account and eagerly assenting to the proposal, the adventurous pair accompanied their friends to Aba then, as at present, a small fishing village, where the party embarked on board a fishing boat, at that time the sole means of communication between Aba and Obama. Fortunately for the voyagers, the weather proved fine and after a trip occupying nearly half a day, they arrived safely at Obama, where, bidding sayonara to their friends, the two travellers, now pioneers, set out cautiously to see the lions of the hamlet. They were probably the first foreigners ever seen by the inhabitants and their presence naturally excited much speculation and comment, othewise their movements were not impeded in any way during their inspection of the place.

O-Yu (hot spring)

The description of Obama as it was in those pre-Meiji days may be interesting to those who know the town as it is at the present day. In place of the fine stone bund, the numerous bath-houses, shops, the two, three and four storeyed hotels, to say nothing of the motor-cars and the other attactions of the town, Obama was but a small fishing village with a bath-house or two and at the most about forty small houses.

Sulphur Spring Yawate, Unzen

A ten minutes' inspection amply sufficed to “do the sights” and the pioneers were considering what to do next when Mr. L., espying a small temple on the hill, situated at the head of many flights of stone steps, drew the attention of his companion to same and it was decided that they would both go up and have a “look-see,” as from that altitude a fine view of the surrounding country could be obtained.

The project was put into immediate execution but was never carried out in its entirety, as when nearing the top of the steps, and while passing a long and high bamboo fence, they had just reached a gateway of the latter, when out sprang a number of fierce looking samurai, each armed with his two swords, and some in addition carrying particularly savage looking spears. They seized the adventurous pair and, after debating whether to cut them down as spies, there and then, finally thought better of it and hauled the pioneers into the presence of their Commander.

Castle Moat, Joka

This latter personage, proved to be an elderly, pleasant looking official, who while seated on the tatami of his yashiki, interrogated the samurai, enquiring where they had captured the “Horrander San,” what they were doing when they were seized, also if they had resisted arrest. The latter query was somewhat superfluous, seeing that captives were still alive and moreover unwounded. It is just these little straws that show which way the wind blows, that illustrate the Japanese devotion to details and precision.

The details of the capture being supplied, the Bugyo, (officer) turned to the prisoners, both of whom were in a mortal funk and expected instant decapitation or, at the least, their being trussed up like pigs and carried on poles, back to their Consuls at Nagasaki. However, they took heart from the kindly demeanour of the Bugyo and replied to his question readily and without reserve, asserting that their presence in district had no political or other ulterior purpose and that they had come solely to see the unknown wonders of the great Japan, of which they had heard so much but had never seen.

Unzen

Their obvious youth and the open-simplicity of their replies seemed to preposses the Bugyo in their favour. He said:—“Don't you know that it is my duty, either to cut you down, or tie-you up and send you back to Nagasaki, there to hand you over to the Foreign authorities?”  The pioneers, admitted the fact, adding hastily, that they were reluctant to put him to so much trouble and compel him to adopt such harsh measure; so if he would order their release, they would promise to go straight back, as quickly as they could and would give no further trouble to any one. “That was all very well,” the Bugyo replied, “but if your presence here becomes known to my Daimyo, together with the knowledge that I have released you.; it may cost me my head, or at the least, the necessity of my taking the happy despatch” (suicide by seppuku.)

After considering matters for a while, the Bugyo ordered the guards to conduct the prisoners to the garden at the rear of the Yashiki and leave them there. The order was duly carried out and the pair were left alone in a beautifully laid out garden, surrounded by a high bamboo stockade, wondering anxiously what was going to become of them, especially as a cleared space seemed horribly suggestive of an exection ground. Escape was clearly impossible. The high stockade, the number of samurai within call, to say nothing of not knowing what direction to take, should they to succeed in scaling the former and eluding the vigilence of the latter; hence they possessed not that degree of placid contemplation necessary for the appreciation of the many and varied beauties, natural and artificial, in the plaisance in which they were confirmed.

Unzen

While waiting thus in anxiety, the Bugyo appeared in a room facing the garden and seating himself on the tatami, he called to the prisoners and invited them also to be seated. He again plied them with questions, particularly their reason for coming to Obama and, an inspiration seizing Mr. L., he spoke up and explained with much naive detail how while in Nagasaki they had both heard so much about Ojigoku, the place of fire and boiling springs where the devil lived, that they wished to see the place. and if possible, the devil, for themselves. At the reply the Bugyo laughed heartily and upon their admission that they were hungry he clapped his hands and a servant appearing, he ordered refreshments to be placed before the prisoners.

By this time, the fears of the latter, anent the imminence of decapitation or, being trusssd up and tied to poles, had been allayed somewhat by the kindly demeanour of their host, who apparently was disposed to feel friendly towards them, so being ravenously hungry, they “wired into” the tea, cakes and fruit set before them without more ado, while replying to the many questions put to them.

Their host appeared to be very curious respecting America and England. which he seemed to think were adjacent countries. On being informed that tea was not grown in either country, and both sent to Japan to buy it, their host said that he had quite a lot of tea that he wished to sell and enquired if his visitors would consider the purchase of it. The latter replied that as they, unfortunately, were at the time outside the Treaty Limits, the transaction, however desirable on both sides, was thus impossible, but that if he, their host, would send the tea to Nagasaki, they would buy it, or at least, would persuade their friends to do so.

The Bugyo appeared to consider this reply a good joke and laughed so heartily that the prisoner-guests, although the point of the joke was not apparent, thought it politic to join in the merriment and this mutual cachinnation seemed to clear the atmosphere of the last vestiges of distrust. After again explaining that it was his duty to detain them and send them back to Nagasaki under arrest, the Bugyo on their assurance that they really wished to see Ojigoku and their promise that they would create no disturbance or interfere in any manner with any of the people whom they might meet, said that he would allow them to go and also, both for his own and their protection, he would send one of his samurai along with them, as a conductor and guard.

In due course, the pioneers, prisoners no longer, accompanied by their warrior guardian, whom as soon as the party were well clear of the Yashiki they found to be a really decent chap and disposed to be friendly and communicative, set out on the long climb to Unzen. The only route was a narrow cow-path, which twisted this way and that, up the side of the mountain and it was long after sunset when they arrived completely tired out with the excitements of the day and their exertions.

The pioneers put up for the night at a small inn with an adjoining bath house on the west side, the houses and bath being still in existence, and after a hearty meal, they turned in for the night, happy in fact that their respective heads remained secure on their shoulders, and slept soundly until daybreak. Next day, in company with their guard, the pioneers visited Ojigoku and inspected the wonders of Unzen, which are too well-known to need any description. Some things, fortunately, in Japan are unchanging, and the natural attractions of Unzen are in this category.

The day was spent in sight-seeing, after which a return was made to the inn for a meal, previous to descending the mountain to Obama, the same evening. These plans however, were upset by Mr. L being unwell, thus rendering travelling impossible. After discussing matters, the guard said that as it was imperative that he report for duty the next day, he would leave the pioneers at the inn, as they could find their way back without his assistance and thus the pair were left to their own devices.

Next morning, Mr. L. feeling much better, the pioneers were discussing ways and means when they were delighted to see their Japanese friends, from whom they had parted at Obama. The latter, while equally pleased, expressed their surprise at the fact of the pioneers having succeeded in getting so far without having been arrested. The circumstances were explained to them and as they were travelling to Joka, they suggested that the pioneers had better join them and on arrival at Minato, the port of Joka, they could obtain a boat to take them across to Aba, and away from this dangerous locality

The idea seemed a good one and adopting it, the party descended the hill on the Shimabara side. To obviate any suspicion of bad faith on their part, a message was left with the innkeeper, to be handed to the guard, should another one be sent by the Bugyo, for transmission to that functionary. In the message, which was written by one of their Japanese friends, the pioneers expressed their gratitude for his (the Bugyo's) kindness, in allowing them to see this wonderful place, although they had, unfortunately, not seen the devil and stated that they were going straight back to Nagasaki, via Minato, where they could obtain a boat.

On nearing the castle town of Joka, and not wishing to compromise their friends by being seen in their company, the pioneers parted from the latter and entered the gate of the town alone. But more adventures were in store for them since, as they were nearing Minato, they encountered a large concourse of people who were evidently out to enjoy themselves.

They were espied by a number of samurai who were seated feasting and a rush was made for them. Realising that flight was impossible, they decided to make no resistance, and awaited capture with as much composure as they could muster up. One huge samurai rushed up to Mr. L., caught him up and carried him off on his shoulder, amid the laughter and plaudits of the people. The other pioneer was grabbed by the arm, and the pair, prisoners once more; were set down on the beach amid a crowd of revelling samurai and townspeople.

Refreshments, liquid and solid, were forced upon the captives and Mr. L—'s refusal to partake of the sake offered by his captor for a moment seemed to disturb the harmony of the meeting, until his eager request for and acceptance of tea, of which there was an ample supply, soothed any possibly ruffled feelings on the part of his captor-host. Mr. L—'s companion, the other pioneer, his willing absorption of the national liquor, together with his, metaphorically, “clinking glasses all round,” was hailed as the Japanese equivalent of “a jolly good fellow” and once again the immediate apprehensions of the pair were temporarly allayed.

Fortunately at this juncture a commotion, occasioned by a fight between two samurai, arose and there was a general rush to the scene of combat, the offensive hosts joining the crowd. The opportunity for escape seemed too good to be missed and the pioneers did what is popularly known as “a bunk,” down a narrow alley and into a house, the door of which stood invitingly open. Once inside, they begged the occupier to close the door and conceal them: also arranged with him to procure a boat for them in order that they could escape when it grew dark.

The various details were satisfactorily arranged and after “lying doggo” for the rest of the day, in the “wee sma' hours,” the pioneers were smuggled into a small fishing boat, in which they made the return trip to Aba. On their return to Nagasaki where their friends were beginning to give them up for lost, they learned of the misadventures of another youthful Nagasaki-ite similarly afflicted with the wanderlust and inspired with the spirit of adventure, who, however, had not come off quite so well as our two pioneers. A day or two previously this gentleman had been carried into Nagasaki on a pole, trussed up like a pig in which guise he appeared before his Consul, a sad and sorry young man, as in addition to his physical sufferings, he had to endure an official reprimand in consequence of his deliberate breach of the Treaty Regulations.

But autre temps etc. Conditions have altered considerably since those by gone days and the trip to Unzen is now considerably less exhilarating than it apparently was in the palmy days of the sixties.

16: September 24th, 1917: A trip to Miike

By no means an ideal day to set out on a round trip. The heavy rain of the previous night occasioned a considerable modification of the itinerary as originally arranged, that portion taking in Furuyu, having to be cancelled, the prolonged and heavy rain of the past few days rendering wheeled traffic up the mountain extremely difficult, if not impossible.

The early start by the first morning train was thus postponed until the 10.40, in the hope that Jupiter Pluvius would rest from his labours.

The hope, however, proved vain as although the weather cleared up for a short spell, enabling a dry departure to be made and giving rise to an optimism that was doomed to disappointment; soon after passing Kikitsu, the rain came down with redoubled intensity, as if to make up for the couple of hours' or so lost time.

At Isahaya, in the same compartment (a prolonged search for “a first class” proving fruitless), was a party of Shanghailanders - members of the S. M. P. and their wives, en route for Unzen.

A S.M.P. Comedy

While awaiting the departure of the Shimabara train, the gentlemen of the party were enjoying a smoke on the platform, the ladies being inside the carriage. One of the later suddenly jumped up claiming “Oh! I've left my bag, with all my money and my passport inside it, in the other train. What shall I do?” This startling intelligence was communicated to the gentlemen of their party and various suggestions were proffered for dealing with the emergency, the most practical being to interview the station master, who would wire along to Omura and have the missing bag returned.

After some discussion, this plan was adopted and, just as it was on the point of being put into execution and the ladies began to gather up their luggage (as the delay would entail the party missing the train); a waggish member of the party produced the missing bag, which he had seen the fair owner leave behind her on leaving the other train.

Tableau! Universal joy. Ejaculations of “Oh you wretch!” mingled with promises of reward in the form of unlimited refreshments, followed by a demand for rope, chain, or even string, on the part of the fair owner, in order that she could lash the bag to her wrist and so avoid any possible repetition of the incident.

At Nampuro Ryokwan

On arrival at Joka, the Clerk-of-the-weather, seemingly, had made up his mind to behave himself, thus enabling the pilgrim and his companion to call on a mutual friend who resided there and whom subsequently joined in the trip to Miike the following day.

The spell of fine weather, however, did not last for long, as towards nightfall, the rain came down in torrents and, after dining with the resident friend and evading with great difficulty his hospitable demand that the pilgrim and his travelling companion quarter themselves upon him for the night; the travellers procured rickshaws and proceeded to the Nampuro Hotel, whither their luggage had preceded them.

After putting up at this cosy hostel, which caters for Foreigners, strict injunctions were given for an early call, in order to catch the steamer which leaves Minato for Miike daily and the travellers retired to rest.

Miike

1 September 25th

The two-and-a-half hours’ trip, from Minato to Miike was marred by the heavy rain which prevailed throughout the passage and, under the scanty protection afforded by leaky awnings; the party, now increased to three, huddled together with some thirty other passengers onboard the small steamer which makes the crossing.

A considerable period before arriving at Miike and while out of sight of land, what in the distance had been assumed to be a steamer at anchor, proved on closer approach, to be a platform built upon screw piles on which a derrick was erected.

This amphibious mining plant was understood to be, either an experimental boring for a new shaft, or an attempt to ascertain the distance the coal seam extended under the sea.

On arrival at Miike, the pilgrim could not but admire the skill and enterprise displayed by the Mitsui Co. in the development of a flat shore, with shallow water and extensive mud banks, into a magnificent wet dock and half-tide basin, the latter 127 acres in area from which two parallel breakwaters, each 9,000 feet long from the dock gates, form a channel having a minimum depth of 18 feet at L.W., M.S.T.

The dock gates are a fine piece of engineering, maintaining a minimum depth of 28 feet within the dock, which latter is 32 acres in area.

The entrance is 66 feet wide, each gate weighs 90 tons and is operated by hydraulic power.

An extensive scheme of reclamation has already been completed and further efforts in this direction are in progress, dredgings and waste material from the mines being utilised for filling in.

The port of Miike, the very ground it occupies, is entirely the result of Man's labour, Nature merely providing the raw material, so to speak.

Picturesqueness here has been sacrified upon the altar of Utility but even under such adverse conditions, Nature cannot be entirely suppressed and trees, plant-life and vegetation spring up from piles of slag, or amid other unpromising conditions.

To the right, a short distance away, are the four peaks of Yotsuyama, on the summit of one being the cairn which marks the boundary between Chikugo and Fukuoka kens. Yotsuyama serves to relieve an otherwise flat landscape while in the hinterland of Miike, a stretch of cultivated ground, bearing an abundant rice-crop, extends to the slopes of the foot-hills and from thence to the mountains which close in the horrizon.

On the dock quays are installed coal tips of the latest and most efficient type, each capable of handling 15,000 tons per diem, could the supply of trucks and trimming keep pace with them. Electricity is the motive power, instead of hydraulic, as is usually the case.

Along the quays and on adjoining tracks, several miles of railway track have been laid all of standard guage, the locomotives being operated by the overhead trolley system, each being sufficiently powerful to draw as many as twenty fully-laden trucks. Spur tracks branch off to the mines, of which the Mitsui Co. at present operate six and sidings and switches at various points lead to the Government railway track.

Each coal tip on the quay can be operated at the rate of one wagon load per minute and as each wagon averages eight tons, it is evident that these tips cannot be worked at their full capacity, on account of the delay due to trimming. This rate of loading, it may be remarked, was ascertained by personal observation and it was understood that the speed can be accelerated in case of necessity.