5: July 30,1917 Kyushu: Smoked Out

Before arriving at Isahaya, where it is necessary to change to a branch line, several tunnels have to be negotiated.

Up go all the windows, bringing the temperature of the car perilously near to melting point (human). A reluctance to close the windows until the last moment results in the car getting filled with smoke and sulphurous fumes also, on emerging into the blessed daylight, it is discovered that in the rush to close the windows, several venetians have been put up, instead of the glass.

Nagasaki, Ishahaya

Nagachi-bashi

Half asphiaxiated, piebald and with a considerable amount of clinkers and Imperial Japanese Railway coal concealed about their respective persons, the party changed to the little, local railway ; a privately-owned concern that serves the Shimabara district, with its terminus at Minato.

The locomotives in use on this line, built by Messrs. Sharp, Stewart & Co. at their "Atlas Work," in 1871, are a tribute to British engineering and, incidentally, the careful nursing of the Japanese drivers. These locomotives, the pilgrim was assured, are the first ever used in Japan—the small, model railway, landed and assembled by Commodore Perry's expedition in 1853 excepted. The builders' name-plate on the engine showed the date of construction to be 1871, so that it had evidently done yeoman service and had travelled many miles during the past 36 years. Like "Charlie's Aunt," it was "still running" and looked to be fit for many more years of useful service. So much for British engineerng. cf. the foregoing example with the Boche electrical machinery, unloaded on the Shanghai Municipal Council 1.

Joka is somewhat off the beaten track of the globe trotter vulgaris, who usually leaves the train at Ainomura, en route for Unzen or Obama.

The town, which has many interesting historical associations, was a castle town of considerable importance previous to the Restoration and overthrow of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The ruins of the castle occupy a considerable area and the site, dominating the town commands a fine view of the Shimabara Gulf.

Shimbara Minato

Over head frowns the peak of Unzen which to-day has attracted to itself the sole patch of cloud visible in the heavens. Rolling billows of white envelop the mountain crest and combine with the steam arising from the hot springs to veil the summit. A proposal was made to make a trip to Unzen on the morrow, the hyper-super-energetic host calmly suggesting a pedestrian trip, from Joka to the peak!  However, the pilgrim jibbed at the idea of going to Unzen under any cir-cumstances, as at this time of the year, the place may be aptly termed Gherusalem novo, due to the annual exodus of the chosen race from S'hai. Another horrible effect of the "ravages of opium," hitherto unpublished. As far as a complete rest and change of environment is concerned, at this time of the year, one might just as well remain in Shanghai as go to Unzen, where the staple conversation is the weary, old China Coast "gup" anent the ups and downs of "docks, rubbers, Lankats" and other matters which one wishes to forget while on a holiday.

Of Unzen, in the season, it may with truth be said: - "Here every prospect please and only - (Censored).

No intimation of the visit had been sent on in advance, hence it partook somewhat of the nature of a surprise party. This, however, did not effect the welcome accorded and the entertainment and hospitality were characteristic of that dispensed by the lonely Briton, settled down among an alien people, many thousands of miles from the land of his birth.

The cost of living seems to be comparatively cheap in this little neck o' the woods, the only difficulty, apparently, being the supply of tobacco.

Unzen Dakii

Of Japanese brands the supply is ample but—appreciation of Japanese tobacco or cigarettes is an acquired taste, requiring much application, and persistence in the presence of difficulties ; the worthy who first styled Man's great solace a "weed," must have had a large and varied experience of the products of the Japanese Tobacco Monopoly.

The Customs Regulations are strictly enforced and as imported brands of tobacco are taxed nearly 200%, those who use real tobacco are more or less happy in the conviction that they are doing their bit, with something to spare, for the Government.

This presses hardly upon the Japanese who has been employed abroad and has acquired the taste for real tobacco. One cannot help sympathising with the culprit, haled to Justice, on the heinous charge of having an odd tobacco plant or two growing in an out-of-the-way corner of his little farm, which has been swooped down upon by prowling members of the revenue service.

Towards evening, Joka showed what it could do in the way of the entertainment of visitors by swarms of particularly ferocious mosquitoes.

Shimabara

However, their glee was brief, as the pilgrim is never without an ample stock of oil of citronella. A few drops forms a barrage, through which no self-respecting mosquito will attempt to pass and they merely buzzed up alongside the host, hostess or the visitors, investigated, found the "Nothin' doin' " sign hung out and, like the Levite of old, " passed by on the other side."

Oil of citronella acts like a charm and already the pilgrim has popularised the use of this deterrent. He was surprised to find the oil and its virtues practically unknown, but frequent de-monstrations of its efficacy and the eight-hour immunity from the attacks of these winged pests that one application brings, have convinced many and it is to be hoped that the possibly, increased demand may not result in rephrensible profiteering on the part of the druggists as their existing stocks run low.

Purchasers are advised to lay in their stock for the season as early as possible also, to assure themselves that the oil is of full strength, as when stocks run low, there is always the temptation to "put a long splice in it" by aiding sweet oil, thus increasing the quantity at the expense of efficiency.

On the following day, a combination bathing and fishing trip was arranged for the afternoon but the pilgrim being averse to all unnecessary exertion, demurred, prognostigating heavy rain. As is usual on these occasions, the prophet was entirely without honour in his own immediate environment. Certainly, nothing in the way of a change in the weather was apparent and for a time it appeared as if his reputation as a weather prophet would go completely "up Salt River." The country requires rain badly aid the f farmers are getting very anxious about the rice crop, some of which already has wilted and is lying ruined in the parched fields.

Unzen

It was during the combined attempt to persuade him to change his mind and join the party that a heavy squall broke over the town, sending doors and shutters banging and loose, light objects scuttering up the streets.

Immediately the sky grew dark and a few moments after the rain poured down in torrents, automatically adjourning the proposed fishing and bathing party sine die. This synchronised with a rise in the current quotation of prophecy stocks, a dignified ignoring of repeated " How did you know it was going to rain ?" together with an impressive air of prescience, serving to command a wholesome respect which was as gratifying as it was unusual. When, at last, the oracle was induced to speak, he said that he had caused the rain, as he did not want to go washing himself on a stony beach, especially as some of the foreigners up at Unzen might have telescopes. This jape was overheard by one of the servants and the first part of it, (possibly the only part understood) was repeated and had acquired: a considerable amount of publicity, ere the visitors left Joka on their return to Nagasaki. On such frail bases are many "reputations" reared.

It was assuming a tremendous responsibility to set up as a prophet even as a weather ditto, of whom much is forgiven them. Taking it by and large, the prophet business cannot be recommended as a career to any youth starting out in life, especially in view of the example provided by the ex-Reverend wiseacre, practising at Peking whom, despite his advertised contemporaneous ascent of Parnassus with a putative President, recently nearly landed himself behind the bars, wearing a striped suit.

It has been said that "A soft answer (or an apology?) turneth away wrath." "Mebbeso?" There is, indeed, something particularly robust about an "apology" that can set aside a criminal prosecution, especially when the case is actually in Court and well on its way towards completion.

A professorial chair in Practical Apologetics, held. down "Gibbie" is not beyond the bounds of possibility —that is, providing that the ex-Rev. "Gibbie " does not get what is really coming to him.

The welcome rain was of too brief duration to do much real good and from the window of the train on the return trip, the pilgrim observed a procession of farmers and villagers on their way to some local shrine, there to induce the tutelary deity to intercede and send more rain, by a performance of odori and dancing.

Shimabara Koen