9: August 7th, 1917 Obama: Obama to Ainomura

Punctual to the moment, the motor was in attendance at the hotel and, the customary presents having been exchanged between the staff and the departing guests, the pilgrim had the novel experience of leaving a hotel otherwise than by passing through an avenue of palms - open and extended.

The car proved to be a seven-seater “E. M. E.” 30., the speedometer recording a distance of 6,509 miles travelled since its installation or last resetting. It had evidently seen good and hard wear but was fit for service and the upholstery was comfortable. The fare to Ainomura, it may be added, is one Yen for each passenger and this sum including a reasonable amount of luggage.

The (Goodrich) tires were in prime condition, although the much-advertised “safety tread” had all been worn away. For such a route and roadbed, it was gathered, nothing but really first-class tires will stand the hard wear and the calls demanded of them, hence the chaffeur was a staunch upholder of the “Goodrich” productions.

Eight persons, including the chaffeur, somehow managed to stow themselves in the car for the forthcoming joy-ride. One could perhaps imagine the feelings and reflections of a sardine, while being tucked away in its little tin. The baggage being hoisted on board safely lashed outside, with a toot on the asthmatic horn, the car started off at a good clip which was increased to about 25 miles an hour on clearing the town.

The level stretch, however, did not last long and soon after passing the bathing beach where many visitors were observed, splashing around in the surf, or enjoying a sun-bath on the strand; the level road was left and the ascent of the mountain began.

The local population met with en route appear to be “well broke” to motor cars, children, chickens, horses and other domestic animals similarly so. With bullocks, however, which are led by a nose ring, greater precautions have to be adopted and they are usually led to the side of the road and held, stern on to the car, until the latter has safely passed.

The down hill trip was particularly exhilarating, some portions being of the “free wheel” description seemingly, implying the provision of good and efficient brakes.

Actuated by a desire to interest and entertain the passengers, a gentleman pointed out a particularly hair-lifting curve, which skirted a drop of a few hundred feet and informed us that some time previously at this spot a car took the descente rapide and brought up among the pines down below.

As we were rapidly approaching the fatal spot, the Pilgrim enquired if this taking the short cut was a regular thing, or only an occasional thrill for the amusement of the passengers, if the former, would he kindly tell the driver to stop as the physician had prescribed walking as a healthy occupation as in the present instance. Profuse explanations followed, showing that this tipping up stunt is strictly an “extra” and not included in the one Yen outlay.

From Ainomura to Isahaya, the junction with the main line, one travels by a small local railway whose locomotives, built by Messrs. Sharp, Stewart & Coy., at the Atlas Works in 1871, like Charlie's Aunt, are still running.

In a previous contribution it was stated that, probably as a precautionary measure, the trains slowed down while passing through the long tunnel which is met soon after leaving Isahaya on the way to Nagasaki. A more careful observation, however, proves this assumption to be erroneous, it being the steep gradient, entailing a heavier drag on the locomotive, that is responsible for the apparent slowing down. To qualify this amende, it may be stated that the impression is further intensified that travelling upon the Imperial Japanese Railways would be rendered much more agreeable with a substitution of anthracite for the abominable soft coal at present in use.

8: August 7th, 1917 Obama: At Yanagawa-ya

The days pass enjoyably at this seaside resort, the time being occupied by trips to the bath, sea-bathing, walks and explorations in company with several friends who are also staying here, or lazing around in deshabille.

No limit had been fixed as to the duration of the stay, which might be three days or a fortnight, but the end came suddenly, like a bolt from the blue.

Bathing Beach at Obama

Splashing around in the surf one morning, one of the ladies unfortunately lost her wedding ring and this was considered such as unfavourable omen that she immediately decided to leave Obama and no persuasion could prevail upon her to change her announced determination of leaving as soon as possible.

Arrangements were made accordingly to return to Nagasaki the following morning and as the steamer route presented no attractions to any of the party after their recent experiences on the outward trip; the necessary passenger and cargo space was reserved in one of the two motor-cars which ply between Obama and Ainomura. Followed the delights of packing up; the landlady was interviewed, bills paid and the supplies of rice, charcoal and other commodities that had been laid in, handed over "for the good of the house" and after an exchange of the usual compliments and presents, as friend Pepys hath it, " and so to bed."

At Obama, however, sleep is found difficult of attainment before midnight, as numerous strolling instrumental players pass and repass, their tinklings, twangings, tootlings and warblings, for the most part pitched in a minor key, although not at all unmelodious, effectively prevent one from "catching the bird" and the futons are forsaken for a final pipe or two on the verandah, which overlooks the main street.

They are not early birds here at Obama, as the street is still thronged with passers by. A parry of musicians with flute, shamisen and gekkin go by; "Hototoguisu," the tune they are playing has a haunting elusive refrain and the pilgrim removes his pipe in an attempt to whistle a soto vice obligato.

Anon with slow but not uncertain footsteps, although totally blind, an elderly professional gentleman passes, announcing both his infirmity and his profession by striking together two pieces of hard wood. This is a celebrated local amma, on his round of visits among his extensive clientele. Massage is a greet institution at Obama and many beneficial results are reported as to its efficacy, especially in cases of rheumatism.

Now comes a bevy of ladies whom, from the gorgeous nature of their apparel, and certain peculiarities in the manner in which it is worn, the pilgrim concludes are ladies of the geisha, returning from some entertainment.

Geisha Dance

 

Immediately below the verandah is a stall at which the ladies stop, one of their number making some purchases thereat. The pilgrim opens pourparlers by wishing the ladies "good evening," with the information that "it's very hot, isn't it ?" Bows, smiles and arch upward glances greet the friendly advance and a mild exchange of chaff ensues, the ladies giving a fair Roland for the pilgrim's Oliver until at length, the purchases being concluded, the pilgrim's "sayonara, please come again soon" meets with a laughing response and their musical laughter mingles with the "clic-clack" of their geta (wooden clogs) as they pass on their way. Such little adventures serve but to accentuate the regret at the impending departure.

The hour grows late and by now the street is comparatively deserted, but now along comes some roistering reveller "all lit up, with back teeth awash" and his face flushed a fiery red from his sustained observation of the sake-bowl. His coming is announced some time ere he lurches into view by the staccato gasps and gurglings and the weird guttural sounds which occasionally pass for music in this land. Tack-and-tack he comes along the road, colliding with a hydrant, to which he raises his hat, bows and apologises, ere setting a course on the next tack, that will clear a telegraph pole on the other side of the street.

His gyrations are observed without enthusiam by junsa-san, who sternly reproves him for his lack of deportment. The admonition, of which the words "baka-ga" are overheard, cause the hilarious one to square up and hurry on his way from this dangerous proximity. But it is now near midnight and the pilgrim knocking the ashes out of his pipe, turns in for the night.