8: August 7th, 1917 Obama: At Yanagawa-ya

The days pass enjoyably at this seaside resort, the time being occupied by trips to the bath, sea-bathing, walks and explorations in company with several friends who are also staying here, or lazing around in deshabille.

No limit had been fixed as to the duration of the stay, which might be three days or a fortnight, but the end came suddenly, like a bolt from the blue.

Bathing Beach at Obama

Splashing around in the surf one morning, one of the ladies unfortunately lost her wedding ring and this was considered such as unfavourable omen that she immediately decided to leave Obama and no persuasion could prevail upon her to change her announced determination of leaving as soon as possible.

Arrangements were made accordingly to return to Nagasaki the following morning and as the steamer route presented no attractions to any of the party after their recent experiences on the outward trip; the necessary passenger and cargo space was reserved in one of the two motor-cars which ply between Obama and Ainomura. Followed the delights of packing up; the landlady was interviewed, bills paid and the supplies of rice, charcoal and other commodities that had been laid in, handed over "for the good of the house" and after an exchange of the usual compliments and presents, as friend Pepys hath it, " and so to bed."

At Obama, however, sleep is found difficult of attainment before midnight, as numerous strolling instrumental players pass and repass, their tinklings, twangings, tootlings and warblings, for the most part pitched in a minor key, although not at all unmelodious, effectively prevent one from "catching the bird" and the futons are forsaken for a final pipe or two on the verandah, which overlooks the main street.

They are not early birds here at Obama, as the street is still thronged with passers by. A parry of musicians with flute, shamisen and gekkin go by; "Hototoguisu," the tune they are playing has a haunting elusive refrain and the pilgrim removes his pipe in an attempt to whistle a soto vice obligato.

Anon with slow but not uncertain footsteps, although totally blind, an elderly professional gentleman passes, announcing both his infirmity and his profession by striking together two pieces of hard wood. This is a celebrated local amma, on his round of visits among his extensive clientele. Massage is a greet institution at Obama and many beneficial results are reported as to its efficacy, especially in cases of rheumatism.

Now comes a bevy of ladies whom, from the gorgeous nature of their apparel, and certain peculiarities in the manner in which it is worn, the pilgrim concludes are ladies of the geisha, returning from some entertainment.

Geisha Dance

 

Immediately below the verandah is a stall at which the ladies stop, one of their number making some purchases thereat. The pilgrim opens pourparlers by wishing the ladies "good evening," with the information that "it's very hot, isn't it ?" Bows, smiles and arch upward glances greet the friendly advance and a mild exchange of chaff ensues, the ladies giving a fair Roland for the pilgrim's Oliver until at length, the purchases being concluded, the pilgrim's "sayonara, please come again soon" meets with a laughing response and their musical laughter mingles with the "clic-clack" of their geta (wooden clogs) as they pass on their way. Such little adventures serve but to accentuate the regret at the impending departure.

The hour grows late and by now the street is comparatively deserted, but now along comes some roistering reveller "all lit up, with back teeth awash" and his face flushed a fiery red from his sustained observation of the sake-bowl. His coming is announced some time ere he lurches into view by the staccato gasps and gurglings and the weird guttural sounds which occasionally pass for music in this land. Tack-and-tack he comes along the road, colliding with a hydrant, to which he raises his hat, bows and apologises, ere setting a course on the next tack, that will clear a telegraph pole on the other side of the street.

His gyrations are observed without enthusiam by junsa-san, who sternly reproves him for his lack of deportment. The admonition, of which the words "baka-ga" are overheard, cause the hilarious one to square up and hurry on his way from this dangerous proximity. But it is now near midnight and the pilgrim knocking the ashes out of his pipe, turns in for the night.