29: October 29th, 1917 Moji to Miyajima

Sanyo Hotel

In accordance with what appears to be the usual custom, the Pilgrim was aroused from his slumbers considerably wide of the time specified on the night previous. A noticeable feature about these calls at Japanese inns is, notwithstanding the elaborate preparations made by the staff, the way they seem to fizzle out and the okyaku-san, if called at all, is invariably roused out either too early or too late.

Sanyo Hotel in 1900

In the latter case, the Pilgrim has been informed that he looked so tired and was sleeping so soundly, that it seemed a pity to wake him; the result playing havoc with carefully prearranged plans and railway connections. Short of having an alarm clock placed in each room and leaving it a struggle between the clock and the sleeper, it seems to be impossible to depend upon being called ‘on time’, anytime before six a.m.

Inari Town at Shimonoseki

As the time of the departure of the express was most convenient, the Pilgrim, against his usual custom, decided to travel by same and an early start was made for the station, in order to purchase the necessary express ticket, the Nagasaki to Kyoto ticket issued by the J. T. B., only providing transportation by the ordinary trains.

Tokyo-Shimonoseki Express 1917

The kyuko-kippu having been obtained (one yen for any distance), surrendering his baggage to akabo (porter, so called on account of his distinctive red cap), the Pilgrim boarded the “Shimonoseki Maru,” for the trip across the straits to Shimonoseki, where the terminus of the main line to Tokyo and beyond is situated.

The “S. M.” is some boat; built of steel and provided with every convenience for the comfort of passengers. Although the trip across to Shimonoseki occupies but fifteen minutes, the first and second class passenger accommodation is furnished upon an elaborate scale, the upholstery and curtains being of green velvet plush and there are lavatory and other conveniences unexcelled, if equalled, on any of the Yangtse river steamers.

"Shimonoseki Maru" - The Sanyo Railway boat

The third class passengers remain in that part of the boat which is allotted to them and require no suasion, either physical or moral, to induce them not to wander about the forward part of the boat, which is reserved for the first and second class passengers. The scene seems unfamiliar, somehow, as here there is no hungry looking mob of slovenly “soldiers” prowling about the deck attempting to take charge generally, as is not entirely unknown elsewhere.

There is some time to elapse ere the departure of the steamer and the Pilgrim utilises the same in noting the orderly and methodical manner in which the passengers embark and in which their luggage is put on board. Comparisons are drawn between the arrangements which obtain at this and elsewhere, the result losing anything being favourable to the latter.

A decided novelty is noted in the form of a wind vane, which is installed upon the roof of the shed covering the jetty. The vane is lettered “W., E, S, and S. in Moji, apparently, or at least, on this particular jetty, the odds are always 2 to 1, in favour of a southerly breeze.

Shimonoseki wharf

The time for departure draws nigh and there is quite a crowd of people on the jetty, bidding farewell to departing friends. The telegraph clangs and the boat backs out, amid much bobbing and bowing, with “sayonaras” rendered in every key and inflexion.

A Moji Coal Junk 

A Moji Sampan

Hayatomo Straits

Port of Shimonoseki

The Coast near Shimonoseki

Dame Nature, apparently, has equipped her Japanese children with two additional hinges and a universal joint, additional to those with which the ordinary mortal is provided in his anatomical framework. One hinge amidships, to facilitate bowing, the other (seemingly a three-ply hinge this) which enables them to remain ‘seated’ for any length of time, neatly folded up, while the nearest approach to the Japanese univer­sal joint that the Pilgrim has hitherto observed is the American “rubberneck.”


This sitting a’ la Japonaise, on a two-foot-square zabuton “wants a bit o’ doin.”  The Japanese appear to be able to maintain this position for hours without the least effort, the Pilgrim’s limit, however is 30 minutes by the clock, the last five of which seem an age, after which, his desire to maintain etiquette is overcome by physical revolt.

Sitting a'la Japonaise:  The Three-ply Hinge"

Travelling in Japan 1917

ADVENTURE WITH THE SECRET SERVICE

An amusing contretemps occurred at Shimonoseki, where the Pilgrim had an experience (not the first instance by any means) which illustrates now the Argus­ eye of the secret service “keeps tab” on the wandering alien.


As the train did not depart for some time after the arrival of the connecting steamer, the Pilgrim busied himself in hunting out the local office of the J.T.B., in order to obtain one of the newly issued Railway Time Tables, as the whole of the train service had recently been revised thus rendering the book in his possession obsolete.


While prospecting around, he was ac­costed by a pleasant looking stranger, dressed in an ordinary suit of foreign style clothes and wearing a soft felt hat of a decidedly clerical type. This gentleman, observing the Pilgrim’s indecision, apparent­ly, seemed to be desirous of helping him on his way and, bowing politely, he enquired whither the Pilgrim was going.


Upon the latter stating that he was looking for the J. T. B., the pleasant stran­ger informed him that it was located in the San Yo Hotel, adjoining the station; replying in the affirmative to the query whether there was time to go there and get back in time to catch the train, and adding that he would be glad to show him the way.


Something like the following colloquy ensued, all in English :‑


Pilgrim: - “Oh!  You are from the hotel? Well, I am not going to stay there, as I am on my way to Miyajima and across to Itsukushima.


Pleasant Stranger: - A-ah!, That is very nice, but I am not from the hotel, I am the Police officer. What is your name and your nationality?” Tableau!  With a profusion of apologies, the Pilgrim ten­dered his card and passport; felt so com­pletely flattened out in fact, that had the officer wanted farther confirmation of his identity would cheerfully have hauled out his shirt, which, in addition to this Pilgrim’s name in bold script, bears the corroborative testimony of various Chinese washermen. This sacrifice, however was not required of him as, with a polite salute, the Police Officer departed, presumably to investigate another alien whom he had marked down, while a subdued Pilgrim wended his way to the office of the “J. T. B.” where a copy of the revised issue of the Railway Timetables was presented to him, gratis.

The Washerman's Guarranty (sic)

It's Translation

No foreign traveller in Japan should be without a copy of this useful book. Printed in English throughout, it gives full details respecting the whole of the train and electric car services which he is likely to use, also there is a handy map of Japan, with insets, showing the Korean and Manchurian services controlled by the Japanese Administration. The book is distributed, gratis, to foreigners on application, while the tables printed in Japanese are on sales at all railway bookstalls.

Shiraito Waterfall and Takinomiya (Waterfall Shrine)

The Train is Just Starting at Shimonoseki Station

The train, as is usually the case with expresses, was crowded and the services of the train boy had to be requisitioned to procure a seat. Certainly, the Railway people had provided seating accommodation far all, but the number of portmanteaux, kori, shingenbukuro, and bundles of every description, piled up on the seats, would seem to necessitate the coupling on of an additional car to accommodate the Pilgrim and one or two other late arrivals. However, by dint of persuasion accommod­ation was procured in one of the sleeping cars. By day, these make very cosy little compartments, each coupe being designed to seat eight persons, although, as a rule, never more than half that number, with their baggage, occupy them.

Observation Car, Imperial Government Railways

Dignified seclusion may be “all very fine and large,” so to speak, but the Pilgrim is of a gregarious breed and prefers the sociability of the long, open, second-class cars to these little boxes. Time enough to get into a box when the last call comes.

Mekari-Jinsha

Nishi-hon-Machi, the main street 1917

In Kiyotaki-Koen

In Kiyotaki-Koen

Miyajima

28: October 29th, 1917 at Ishida Kwan

The Narrows from Kiyotaki-koen

Moji Harbour

Duly installed at Ishida Kwan, a comfortable Japanese hostel, the Pilgrim for the time being, loses his identity as such and becomes known to all and sundry as “juroku-ban;” -16 being the number of his room and the name or the first syllable thereof, having no reference whatever, to the shape or size of his nose or the keenness he displayed in striking the preliminary bargain. After a bath, followed by a very good dinner, the Pilgrim sallied forth to see the town. But what a different Moji! So many changes seem to have taken place during the last decade; “improvements,” involving the obliteration of once familiar landmarks, that one fails to recognise the place.

Imprimis. There is a new railway station, an elaborate affair, replacing the small but compact terminus of other days. A decided improvement is the removal of the jetty of the railway station, to one through which passengers may now pass direct to the boat, thus obviating the trip through the town at the tail-end of a procession of rickshaws loaded with baggage, as was necessary in proceeding to the old hatoba, some distance from the old railway station. Gone also, the old main street with its road metal of small loose pebbles. The latter, although doubtles admirable as regards the absence of dust or mud, yet rendered progress, either a-wheel or on foot, a matter of deliberation and difficulty.

 No 2. Hatoba (pier)

Moji Town and Harbour

Moji in the 1860s

The small shops also, that fronted this street seem to have been “improved” out of existence, as nowadays their sites are occupied by fine up-to-date business establishments on this, the main business thoroughfare, up and down which an excellent service of electric cars is maintained.

Bird's Eye View of Moji

Wakamatsu Habour near Moji

Considering the fact that less than forty years ago, Shimonoseki was the port and Yuji a mere fishing village, the development of the latter place is a remarkable and highly ereditable illustration of Japanese industrial progress. The Asano cement works, which the Pilgrim remembers as a comparatively small affair with, at the most, half a dozen chimneys, nowadays is a huge undertaking, occupying a large area, with row upon row of smoking kilns.

The Pilgrim's stay at Moji was too brief to permit of his revisiting Kiyotaki Koen, the public garden from which a fine view of the surrounding scenery may be obtained and, for a similar reason, Mekari-Jinsha, a temple connected wherewith are many pleasant personal associations, was not visited.

In Kiyotaki Koen

Mekari-Jinsha, from the beach

From the grounds of this temple, situated as they are on the extreme northern point of Kyushu, the view of the Straits and the western entrance to the Inland Sea, with the mountains in the background is extremely picturesque.

Moji harbour and waterfront also seemed different, the changed appearance probably being due to the lack of shipping, as in place of the many liners at anchor, cargo steamers loading coal or bunkering; owing to the demand for British and Allied tonnage elsewere, there were few foreign vessels in port and of these, all flew an alleged “neutral” flag.

Along the Moji Waterfront

The Asano Cement Works

Osaka Shosen Kaisha Pier

O.S.K. Wharf

Hayatomo Beach

Moji

The Custom House

Down a side street away from the region of bright lights, music and hilarity, the following remarkable legend was observed:—

To the best of his recollection, the Pilgrim has never had his hair cut by a “graduate” and the opportunity of acquiring yet another novel experience appeared too good a one to be missed, but the Fates seemingly had destined it otherwise; Graduates, it would seem are either shy or early birds, as the Tonsorial Emporium appeared to be closed for the day and thus another burning desire had to remain ungratified.

This signboard leads one furiously to think. Apparently there are Schools and Curriculums of which the average man wots not, as a degree in the Art (or Science?) of haircutting is somewhat of a novelty. But this is Taisho, the era of progress, and mayhap some day it may be the good fortune of the Pilgrim, ere he finally lays down his staff and scrip, and discards his palm and cockle shells, to have his thirst assuaged by a graduate ‘barkeep,’ or his boots clearned by a ditto shineofaciste.

Among the many beneficial result of Japan's excellent scheme of intensive education, such an event is not wildly improbable and judging by the number of schools, existent and in course of erection which are to be seen everyhere; in another decade or so, the Japanese will - or at least, ought to - rank with the best educated peoples of the world. “Knowledge is power,” so runs the old copy-book maxim, hence having ‘got’ (or gotten, as our American cousins prefer it) :

“The ships, and got the men, and, (recently) Has got the money too,”

with that Power, incident upon the acquisition of knowledge, Japan need have no fear for her future, always providing that all is well within her gates.

But a cloud has risen above her political horizon in her Labour question and the question, although not yet acute, must occasion grave anxiety to her rulers, as throughout the world Demos is awake and fully aware of his value to the State. To a superficial observer, unskilled in the Science of economics Japanese Labour appears to receive a miserable pittance for its inestimable services to the Nation. Far-seeing employers appear to have accorded a tardy recognition of the fact and, as a sop to the Democratic Cerberus, - presumably, in the hope of postponing the inevitable day of reckoning, - they have granted slight increases of pay to their employees. Meanwhile the cost of living is rising steadily and thereby accelerating the advent of settling day.

The old machi at the back of the town appeared to be little, if at all, changed; possibly there is more electric light used now-a-days but otherwise the streets are as narrow, bustling and interesting as ever.

Anent the otherwise excellent electric car service, two objectionable features must be noted. The headlight, the glare of which is much too brilliant, blinds pedestrians, and in place of the warning bell, the cars are fitted with a whistle operated by compressed air, which makes as much row as the whistle of a steam launch and is altogether far too loud and piercing. The Tramway Company, as elsewhere in Japan, appear to have more consideration for the welfare of the employees, despite the fact that the extremes of climate are not so rigorous, than the case in Shanghai.

This care for the welfare of the motorman and conductor, is evinced even in the smaller towns, as the front and rear platforms of the cars are always boxed in and glazed, thus protecting them from the inclemency of the weather, while at the same time not interfering with the efficient performance of their respective duties. Another notable feature in Japan appears to be the fact that Regulations are promulgated with the expectation that they will be observed and while it appears to be superfluous to decorate the interior of the car with notice “No spitting allowed,” the printed prohibition of smoking is strictly enforced.

Another remarkable feature observed in the Moji streets is the limited number of rickshaws, either in actual use, or in on the licensed stands. Hence, it is evident that the trams do most of the local passenger transportation. Bicycles, however, are as prevalent as elsewhere and, incidentally, are a great a nuisance to the ordinary pedestrian.

Pictures of Moji

Moji Yukaku "Y.M.C.A."

The Y.M.C.A. (Young Men's Coddling Assn.)

The Kaigan-dori

Temple of Hachiman

Higashi Hon Machi

 Nishi Honcho-dori

The round is soon completed and the Pilgrim returns to his hotel there to complete his preparations for an early start on the morrow.

The Babayukaku Barrier - The Manger, Wild Oats for Wild Asses "YMCA"

Yes, Moji has changed; although seen from the hotel verandah previous to retiring, the lights on the hill glow just as brightly through their crimson paper lamps and look just as pretty and as alluring as ever. But a younger generation of wassailers nowadays plays its part in the ever-green tragi-comedy of the Prodigal Son Up-to-date, and while knocking out the “dottle” of his last pipe for the night, the Pilgrim wonders somewhat sadly what has become of that merry and irresponsible band, which foregathered where lamps and eyes glowed brightly in those bygone mad but merry days. Ehu! Fugaces labuutur anni! (Alas our fleeting years pass away, ed.)

"That Merry and Irresponsible Band"

Drawing the shoji together and shutting out the view, the Pilgrim sets about his nightly task of working out the train service and connections for the ensuing day's lap - Moji to Miyajima on this occasion - previous to issuing orders anent 6 being called betimes. “And so to bed.”  The Pilgrim turns into his comfortable futon therein to sleep soundly.

Note: Moji - Important coal export port - northern terminus of the Kyushu branch of Imperial Govt. Railways. It is 164 miles from Nagasaki and connects by ferry with Shimonoseki across the straits. It is the western entrance of Inland Sea and exceedingly picturesque in scenery.

Shimonoseki

Kanmon Renraku

Sanyo Hotel

Kameyama Insetsuji

The Railway Station

Heiken-no-mori

Genpei, Dannoura

Other Photographs

Kaimondake, Kagoshima

                                                "Bright Sights, Eyes, Music and Hilarity"

Playing Koto

Shitsukeigen

Arishiyama, Kyoto

                        Five O'Clock Tea